Currant is the most stable and hardy fruit shrub, which is quite easy to grow in a summer cottage or garden plot. Fruiting is always plentiful, and in one place the bush can live for a very long time. To get a good harvest, it is necessary to plant currants in humus-rich soil with enough moisture, preferably in a sunny place. True, blackout is not a big hindrance.

To achieve stable moisture, a layer of mulch is needed, which also protects the roots from the cold in winter.

Important recommendation: Plant currants to such a depth that the edge of the soil coma is 5 centimeters below the level of the hole. This approach promotes the formation of new stems and reduces the negative impact of frost.

Bush or trunk

Europe is practicing with might and main the cultivation of currants on a trunk, which is grafted onto the trunk of a rooted golden currant. The standard form is obtained with a dense and compact crown, thereby requiring less space on the site than for bush berry species. But in this type of growing currants, the yield is somewhat smaller. Here you need to choose from how much space on your site. Many? Then plant bushes. Little space? Pay attention to the standard landing.

The most popular currant varieties

If you have not yet planted currants and want to know which varieties are best, then the following list can be of great help to you:

  1. Jonkheer Van Tets is a mid-early variety with a slightly sour taste. This type of currant has received great recognition in Western Europe.
  2. Rovada is a variety with sprawling redcurrant bushes. The end of July is marked by round, and sour fruits.
  3. Rosalyn is a type of red currant with slightly acidic berries, which is especially loved by children.

White currant is an order of magnitude softer in contrast to red species. Everyone who loves red berries will repeat that white berries have an insipid taste.

  1. Weibe Versailler is an irregularly shaped shrub with medium maturity.
  2. The new Primus variety has berries with a yellowish color and long tassels. The variety does not drop flowers, and small fruits do not appear on it over time.

Under adverse weather conditions, currants can drop flowers. This is a natural problem - heat, late frosts and so on. This reaction can be stopped. To do this, it is enough to plant bushes tightly and regularly monitor soil moisture during drought (and not only).

Pruning currants - how and when to do it

The hottest question about currants among gardeners is whether it is necessary to prune the bushes in the summer. After all, every experienced summer resident probably knows that it is required to immediately cut raspberry shoots after harvesting. But what about currants?

Various thematic magazines offer a variety of options. Some authors claim that summer pruning of shrubs has a large number of advantages:

  1. Improves access of sunlight to young / main shoots.
  2. The development of young branches is accelerated, which are located inside the bush and have enough space for intensive growth.
  3. The bush is better supplied with nutrients from the soil.
  4. Photosynthesis speeds up.

You can often find the opinion that young bushes do not need to be cut, especially for those that grow poorly. Such an event will only aggravate the situation - and the bush will die.

As a rule, berries of red and white species appear on side branches that grow for two years or more. By about the fourth year, the yield is already falling. As soon as you notice a decrease in the level of fruiting - collect the berry, cut about three skeletal shoots under the root. Make sure there is no stump left. This is a kind of thinning procedure.

On the one hand, you will make room for the growth of new branches, and on the other hand, there will be more lighting for next year's fruits.

View young shoots, select the strongest. All the rest can be cut under the root. If you manage to pull them out, this is the best solution. As a result of this procedure, up to 10 shoots no older than 4 years should remain on your bush.

Once the main branches have been removed, you can move on to the side shoots. Initially, remove the branches at the level of 30-40 centimeters. Lateral branches that grow from the base of the bush are not of interest in terms of yield. Therefore, this category is also subject to removal.

All lateral branches that bear fruit should be shortened by one centimeter. In such places fruitful branches will grow next year. No need to touch the young side branches - these are fruitful branches that will prove themselves next year.

If side shoots are placed very close to each other at a distance of less than 10 cm, every second can be removed. When in doubt, keep in mind that the fewer new shoots on the branches, the more will subsequently grow from the root, which will be required to renew the crown.

Blackcurrant pruning

In the case of blackcurrant bushes, the pruning process is slightly different from working with red and white berry varieties. Black currant yields on annual shoots, which are located on the sides of the bush on branches of 2-3 years of age.

On the main branches, you can remove all weak shoots, and also every spring you need to cut the main branches above the second / third side branch. In exactly the same way as with red varieties, old branches that give a weak increase are completely subject to harvesting. This will also improve the access of sunlight to the shoots, as well as free up space for the development of young stems.

After completing the harvest, it is necessary to prepare the berry bushes for the winter period. For currants, it includes: shaping and renewing pruning of shrubs, processing of the near-stem circle, fertilization. Procedures start from mid-September and end in mid-November.

Pruning currants after harvesting allows you to achieve enlargement of berries in the next season. It can be carried out both in the fall - after the leaves fall, and in the spring. Most gardeners prefer autumn pruning. In the spring, due to the early budding of the currant bush, there is a high probability of damage to the branches.

Pruning red currants after harvesting is no different from the procedures performed in relation to other species (black, white, pink) and consists of three stages:

  • Branches that give a weak ovary and small berries are cut with a garden pruner or saw;
  • Thin out the bush, cutting off the inner, thickening branches;
  • Get rid of broken and weakened branches with zero shoots.

Ideally, 3-5 large healthy branches are left for the first time, some of which should be grown this year. The procedure is carried out carefully so as not to damage the fruit bud. To do this, the cut is made above the kidney by 5 mm, at an angle of 45-50 degrees.

You can find detailed information on how to prune currants after harvesting in our material. Regular removal of excess branches contributes to the formation of a bush, an average of 15 branches, but giving a bountiful harvest of large berries.

The annual care of blackcurrants after harvesting includes digging in the near-stem circle, which is carried out by shallow digging by a third of the shovel bayonet, with turning over the surface soil layer.

The shovel is placed with an edge to the bush and parallel to the root processes. The excavated and inverted layers are not broken so that they help to retain moisture in the soil in the spring. The recommended depth of digging in the row-spacing is 20 cm, at a distance from the trunk of the bush 10 cm. Performing the procedure in the fall, they simultaneously destroy the larvae of the bush mite and sawfly hiding in the soil for the winter.

Adherents of organic farming oppose overdigging, which, in their opinion, can harm the root system. As an alternative, mulching is carried out within a radius of up to half a meter with peat or sawdust with ash previously sifted through a sieve. The bedding is made in a layer of 10 cm. This allows you to keep the soil around the bush loose and moist. Caring for red currants after harvest also includes digging or mulching.

How to feed currants in the fall

Since the currant is weakened after harvesting, it is necessary not only to carry out unloading pruning, but also to feed the plant. Fertilizers will help berry growers regain strength, prepare for the first frosts, and also compensate for the lack of necessary substances in the soil.

Top dressing is distributed in an even layer around the bush and dug up. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not used, as they contribute to the growth of young shoots.

Top dressing is applied in three stages, each of which is of particular importance in the development of culture.

To increase the yield of the bush

To increase fruiting and taste of berries, 100 gr. phosphorus and 30 gr. potassium, preferably in granular form. After that, the plant is watered abundantly, using at least 10 liters of water.

For the stable development of branches

To increase the vegetative mass, chicken manure or rotted manure is used, which are scattered at a distance of 30 cm from the trunk circle. This distance will protect the plant from root burn.

To protect against diseases

Introduction to the bush 1 tbsp. l. wood ash will solve the problem with the spread of diseases. This fertilizer will also help the soil retain moisture.

You will find information on how to fertilize currants in spring and summer in our article.

Processing currants after harvest

After loosening the near-stem circle of currants, it is necessary to disinfect the soil. To do this, use the drug "Karbofos", or boric acid in the proportions indicated on the package.

Outcome

In order to collect a large berry every year, you need to know how to care for currants after harvesting, how to feed them in the fall, and how to properly prepare for winter. By following simple rules, you can grow healthy berries with excellent yields.

Without annual rejuvenation, the bushes will not be able to use their full potential for abundant fruiting. And all because they are tied to last year's growth of branches, which are no more than 5 years old. That is why it is so important to remove all old, dry, damaged elements that compete with each other and interfere with the growth of new shoots. When is a plant, how to do it correctly, and are there any differences in cutting bushes and - we will talk about all this later in the article.

The benefits of pruning for currant bushes

Regular shearing of currant bushes contributes to their abundant yield. Therefore, if you want to develop with full dedication, do not run them.
Experts explain that with the regular removal of diseased, frozen, too old, dried, affected by fungi or harmful branches, a continuous process of formation of basal sprouts is started and, accordingly, the bush branches.

Only young shoots are prone to abundant fruiting, although occasionally berries can appear on old ones.

Important! With regular rejuvenation of blackcurrant bushes for 25 years, abundant fruiting is guaranteed, and on red this period is possible only up to 15 years of plant age.

Shorn bushes, unlike thickened ones, receive more light, are less affected by pathogens and are much easier to care for. Experienced ones advise starting pruning on young seedlings.
The first 4 years, they provide an opportunity to develop culture and increase growth from 15 main branches. Ideally, on such a plant, 4 annual and biennial sprouts appear. It is in this form that the bush must be kept for the next 15-20 years.

When to prune currants

It is recommended to remove all unnecessary branches in the berry bush in the initial stages. In early spring, before the buds begin to open, you need to carefully examine the bushes and cut off everything unnecessary.

At the same time, it is important not to miss the deadlines, because it begins to bloom early, and this process lasts for a short time.
It is impossible to cut a blossoming bush, this is fraught with its depletion and a waste of nutrient resources. If you didn’t have time to complete pruning, do not forget to continue the work you started in the fall.

Did you know? Latin name "ribes" currants were given by the Arabs in 711. Then they conquered Spain and in search of their favorite rhubarb (ribas) were forced to adapt to the local plants. It was the sour currant berries that reminded them of the absent one.

Some gardeners try to carry out the main pruning of currants in late autumn, when the plant sheds foliage. The main thing is to be in time before frost. And in early March, dry and frozen sprouts are removed. In the 2nd decade of July, the tops are cut off on skeletal shoots. This is done to branch the bush and lay the buds of the next year, from which berries will appear in the future.

A set of garden tools for work

For cutting currant bushes, it is important to acquire the necessary equipment. For professionals, an elementary garden set consists of (regular or bypass), a brush cutter, a lopper, a hacksaw, and.

Everything must be sharp. In addition, when choosing them, pay attention to the ends.

It is desirable that they be narrow and allow you to effortlessly make your way to the bases of the sprouts, without injuring the neighboring ones. It is also worth considering the weight and safety of the inventory, the convenience of its handle.
Experts strongly recommend starting pruning with disinfectant measures on the blades of the tools involved. They are sold using a weak solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol. The same procedure ends the haircut in the berry.

Important! For delicate pruning of currant bushes, you need to choose tools with a thin supporting part and sharply sharpened blades.

Pruning currant bushes depending on age

Before taking on a pruner, every gardener must understand that his main task is to develop a bush from 15 main branches that are no more than 5 years old.
Everything that is older is mercilessly removed. Such sprouts only in vain emasculate nutrient resources from the root system.

Let us consider in more detail the main nuances of pruning currants in the spring at all stages of its development with visual diagrams and photos.

The first cutting of bushes is carried out immediately after planting and consists in removing all sprouts. The cut falls just above 3 buds.
And do not worry that the plant can get sick after such a radical haircut. On the contrary, it will contribute to the correct formation of the crown. And by next spring, 5-6 young branches will grow.

Pruning bushes of the second year

On biennial plants, zero sprouts and part of the skeletal ones are subject to removal. This is a very important moment, since the further fruiting of the bush depends on it.

In order not to be mistaken, always leave at least 3, but not more than 5 central branches that do not compete with each other and form the skeleton of the plant.
Choose healthy and strong sprouts, as frail and lifeless ones will do little good. They only interfere with the full development of the bush.

In July, on an annual currant bush, it is necessary to cut off the top in order to make it possible to increase not the height, but the lateral growths. In this case, the cut falls under the second kidney from above. All manipulations are aimed at the formation of new fertile sprouts.

Formative pruning 3-4 years

At the 3rd and 4th year of life, currant bushes are pruned in the same way as two-year-old specimens. The main principle of the gardener's work is to eliminate all unnecessary sprouts that thicken the crown and compete with each other.

It is important to leave up to 6 central shoots. Do not allow the development of branches growing from the inside of the crown. They must be removed, as they obscure fertile growths, interfering with their vegetation.

The second haircut rule says to shorten the upper zones of skeletal and last year's branches.
Make sure that each branch has no more than 2 buds. If you do everything right, by the 5th year of life, the plant will form the correct spherical crown.

Did you know? 1 tablespoon of blackcurrant grated with sugar contains the daily requirement of vitamin C, potassium and iron.

Currant pruning 5 or more years

Starting from the age of 5, the plant forms aging lignified branches. Therefore, he needs a rejuvenating haircut, which consists in removing dry, frozen, broken and unviable, drooping and old branches.

Pruning currants is a prerequisite for obtaining a good harvest of berries. A well-groomed bush has a longer life expectancy and resistance to diseases. Pruning must be done according to certain rules.

A bit of theory

To better understand the rules, you need to understand the terminology.

In the year of planting, all branches are cut at the level of 2-3 buds. Of the shoots grown the next year, 2-4 of the strongest should be left, and the rest should be cut at the base. If the bush is poorly developed, the branches are cut in half. In the future, annually you need to leave 3-4 branches coming from the root. The bush is formed 5 years

Pruning - performed according to different rules to achieve certain goals. Sanitary pruning consists in removing diseased branches and thinning the crown. Forming - used to give the bush a better structure. Rejuvenating - performed to get rid of infertile old branches, and stimulate the emergence of young ones. Pinching - removal of the apical part of the shoot.

When pruning, dry, damaged, rubbing, branches lying on the ground are cut out, shoots are shortened, the growth of which is less than 15 cm per year

Zero Escape (Resume Escape)- grows near the bush from the ground and originates from the underground part of the currant.

Skeletal branches- from 5 to 20 main branches forming a bush. Fruit twigs of different orders grow on skeletal branches.

Top (fat runaway)- grows from old skeletal branches. Practically useless and recommended for removal.

In August, you can pinch the young shoots of blackcurrant, thickening the bush. The procedure will provoke the laying of replacement shoots

The age of the shoots - the stem of a young branch is painted in a light beige or grayish hue, the old branches are thick, dark brown. To determine the age, pay attention to the order of branches. The first branching appears in the second year of life. If the branch has not been pinched, there may be no branching. Then the age is determined by the number of dense groups of kidneys. Groups of buds form at the top of the shoot. Every year the tip of the shoot grows upward, forming a new group of buds.

Autumn pruning rules

Rule 1 To harvest the best crop, pruning should be done in such a way that there are several branches of different ages on the currant bush - from 1 to 6 years. Shoots older than 6 years cease to bear fruit.

Rule 2 Form pruning of currants in the fall is performed every year after the foliage has fallen.

Rule 3 The first year after planting is no exception. Absolutely all shoots above 2-3 developed buds are cut off on the seedling. By the end of the season, after such a molding pruning, the currant will be a fluffy young bush of 5-6 young branches.

When the bush has many well-developed young basal shoots, the old ones can be cut off at the base.

Rule 4 In the second year, the first zero shoots may appear, which will become skeletal branches. Leave no more than five - cut the rest to the root.

Rule 5 The denser the currant bushes are planted, the less branches you need to leave.

Rule 6 In the third year, the bush is finally formed: again no more than five zero shoots are left, the tops of annuals are shortened, 2-3 buds are left from each branch on two- and three-year-old branches.

Rule 7 From the fifth year, currants begin to rejuvenate - the old skeletal branches are cut off to the very root. The rest are cut according to the rules corresponding to their age. Be sure to cut the tops to zero.

Spring pruning rules

Rule 8 Pruning currants in the spring is necessary to remove diseased branches damaged by frost and wind. Forming pruning is best postponed until autumn.

Rule 9 You can put the bush in order when the air temperature stops dropping below zero, but before the buds open and the beginning of intensive sap flow.

Young shoots that: develop poorly, grow inside the bush or thicken it, are susceptible to disease - should be removed

Rule 10 Pruning shears remove frozen, broken branches. Shoots are removed that thicken the crown, strongly inclined or creeping along the ground.

Rule 11 In the spring, red and white currants cut out excess shoots that have appeared from under the ground, and cut down branches older than 5 years at the base. If the old branch below has good branching, cuts can be made above it, stimulating the formation of new young shoots.

Summer pruning rules

Rule 12 Blackcurrant pruning in summer is done before flowering to encourage more flower buds to form.

Rule 13 On the bushes in early July, pinch the tips of the branches. This procedure helps to increase the yield, enhance the development of lateral shoots and twigs from the underground part of the bush, accelerates the ripening of berries.

When pruning branches from below, in no case should stumps be left. The cut must be made at ground level.

Rule 14 Since white and red currants yield mainly on the apical part, summer pinching is contraindicated for them.

Rules for pruning currant bushes according to the technology of the Michurin Institute

The Michurin Institute offers a completely different, less labor-intensive approach:

    The first 5 years, young bushes are not pruned. During this time, the berries will have time to ripen 2-3 times. In the sixth year, instead of painstaking work on the formation of a bush, 50% of all plants are mowing to ground level. The crop is removed from the remaining half of the currant. For the 7th year, the bushes remaining without processing are mowed. The shoots formed in the first group are thinned out, leaving up to 20 of the strongest shoots. Harvesting after rejuvenation is carried out for 2-3 seasons. In the future, the bushes are considered worked out and uprooted.

This technology increases the yield of the plantation by 30-40% and is mainly used for industrial-scale berry picking.

Sanitary regulations

Rule 15 Pruning is carried out exclusively with garden shears or a file. Breaking branches is not recommended, as this increases the likelihood of infection of plants with fungal and bacterial diseases.

Rule 16 The tool must be sharp and make a quality cut. Ragged bark is an open gate for pests.

Blackcurrant bears fruit on young shoots. Branches that are more than 3 years old can be safely deleted

Rule 17 With the complete removal of the branches, the cut is made on the ring. A high stump can serve to spread rot.

Rule 19 The condition of the branch is of paramount importance when culling, and only then - the age.

Rule 20 Removed plant parts are placed in compost pits or burned to prevent the spread of diseases and pests.

Old branches are removed. They are distinguished by the presence of moss or lichen on the bark. They are cut off at the very base. For convenience, you can use a pruner

By following the rules for pruning currants in spring and autumn, gardeners get large yields of large healthy berries. High-quality care ensures the health and longevity of fruit-bearing shrubs.

After the next crop of currants is harvested, the bushes must be processed in a timely manner in order to get a good amount of large and juicy berries next year. Pruning currants after harvesting allows the plant to form correctly and not "sick". Enemies of unkempt currants - and insect pests. To reduce the risk of infection, excess and old branches are carefully removed.

Tool preparation and processing methods

Proper pruning of currants is the key to a wonderful harvest!

It must be remembered that pruning branches is a strong stress for currants, so this process must be approached with great care. There are usually many branches to cut, so the result directly depends on the state of the tool that you have to use. A hacksaw or pruner should be well sharpened so that the cuts are neat and small.

When is the best time to prune currants? For this responsible event, it is better to choose a sunny and dry day at the end of October, at the beginning of November.

The process is simplified if the shrub is young and has not yet borne fruit. In this case, you will have to cut off only unnecessary basal shoots. For the harmonious formation of a bush, three or four shoots are enough.

If the age of the bush is more than 4 years, then every year in the fall all dry and diseased shoots are carefully removed, in which the plant no longer needs, but only gives them its vital juices and strength. There will be no sense from these branches - they will no longer bear fruit. And for insects, they become a favorite habitat, which is why the currant bush gradually gets sick all over.

How to distinguish diseased currant branches from healthy ones?

Before proceeding with the processing of the plant, it is necessary to carefully examine all the branches. The color of the bark in young and old shoots is very different. Young ones are covered with a light greenish bark, and old ones are brown with a grayish coating. Twigs with weak growths, poorly developed buds, visible signs of damage by various diseases - the plant is no longer needed, and they must be removed to keep the bush in excellent condition. Pruning currants will help the plant stay healthy.

But if the branch is still strong in appearance, and the flower buds on it are healthy and large, it can be left on the shrub for a few more years. It happens that young, seemingly healthy branches also do not bear fruit from year to year. Such shoots will also have to be removed.

Which branches are being urgently removed?

How to cut currants? Without any hesitation, you can cut down the lower branches from the currant bush, which bend to the very ground under the weight of berries. Such fruits are still not suitable for consumption, because they quickly rot when in contact with the ground, and are often covered with dirt.

Shoots that disrupt the normal growth of the shrub must also be removed. Curves growing in the wrong direction of the branch only prevent the currant from developing normally. They come into contact with other shoots and, during bad weather conditions, easily throw off the berries from the shrub, peel off the tender bark from young twigs. It's like tearing off a piece of skin. Open wounds are tasty for insects, and any infection freely infects the plant.

Removing leaves and fertilizing currants

After pruning blackcurrants in autumn, all leaves on the shrubs must be cut off. Why do you need to do this? The fact is that yellowing, rotting leaves become a good breeding ground for pests.

The earth near the shrub is slightly loosened and mixed with fertilizer: 1 bucket of manure per 1 bush. You can feed the plant with a carbamide solution, to which a small amount of ash is added.

What does a processed currant bush look like?

Usually pruning of a shrub is completed by the fifth year of its life. When the autumn pruning of the currant is completed, the "skeleton" of the formed shrub should be 10-15 main branches. These are both young and old shoots. A healthy bush should have a strong and wide base, thanks to which sunlight falls on all branches. Such a plant is covered with buds, and then with berries from the middle of the bush. If the currant is not processed, the berries are small and ripen only on the outer shoots, and in the center of the bush they may not be at all.

Processing features

Autumn pruning of currants occurs in several stages:

  1. When pruning, it is important to leave 3-4 shoots that bear fruit well this season. A few years later, the shrub will be up to 20 branches of different ages.
  2. When the plant reaches the age of 7-8 years, the shoots that appeared in the first year of life should be removed. Weak, diseased, broken, branches growing in the wrong direction are also desirable to cut. A fully formed bush will consist of 20-25 branches, the age of which ranges from 1 year to 8 years.

Spring pruning currant

When is it better to cut currants: in spring or autumn? In addition to autumn pruning, amateur gardeners can also carry out spring processing of the plant. This procedure should be started after the period of frost ends and the thaw begins. But it is important not to miss the period in which the plant has not yet begun to form buds and is in a "sleeping" state.

How is this process carried out?

  • The branches are shortened by one quarter at the edges so that the bush resembles a bowl.
  • The crown needs to be thinned out, getting rid of unnecessary thickets that prevent normal lighting and take away the energy of the plant.
  • At the first spring pruning of a young bush, it is recommended to leave the 10 strongest shoots.
  • In subsequent seasons, one third of the old shoots are removed from the shrub.
  • It is desirable to carry out spring pruning annually, and at least 1 time in 2 years.

Many inexperienced gardeners, not knowing the rules for caring for currants, prefer not to cut off old shoots at all, believing that the forces of nature will fix everything themselves, and currants will always bear fruit perfectly. But it's not. Simple recommendations will help save the plant and get a large number of tasty and healthy berries every year.

How to prune blackcurrant bushes - video