TOOLS AND MATERIALS FOR PAINTING
Whitewashing the ceiling, pasting the walls with wallpaper and films, painting doors and windows are classified as painting work. Let's start talking about them with tools.
The main tool of the painter is a brush (Fig. 1). Depending on the size, shape, method of manufacture and material, paint brushes are divided into flywheel, manual and cutting (stencil, panel, flutes).
For whitewashing, you can make a brush yourself, for example, from a thin bast (Fig. 2). Gather the fibers about 30 cm long into a bun, fold them in half and tie tightly with strong twine. Then put a handle on the end of the brush, and chop off the other end with an ax. The brush is ready.
THIS IS USEFUL TO KNOW
Either because of the repair, or because you wanted to change the boring interior, you decided to move the furniture. How to do this without “tearing” and not scratching the floor!
Place polyethylene lids from cans under the legs of the cabinet - they reduce friction and it will not be difficult to move a heavy object.
Place a thick woolen rug under the legs of the object being moved. In this way it is convenient to overcome thresholds. The “technology” of moving is simple - one person pulls the rug, the other pushes the cabinet. Place milk cartons under the legs of a heavy object. After all, they are covered with paraffin and therefore glide perfectly on the floor. And if there are no milk bags or lids from cans at hand, there is no need to despair. Rub the intended route of movement of a heavy object with a damp household soap or cover it with a layer of wax.
In addition to brushes, the painter's arsenal should include spatulas, rubber rollers, and various brushes.
A spatula is a metal or wooden spatula with a rubber or steel plate (Fig. 3). It is used for covering (cutting) ceiling and other cracks, removing old paint, etc. The industry produces spatulas with a blade width of 40, 85, 105 and 130 mm. For repair work and an apartment, a spatula with a metal blade 85 cm wide is more suitable.
You can also make a spatula yourself from a slightly springy steel plate, providing it with a wooden handle. Instead of steel, you can use plywood or thick rubber.
Many paint rollers are made by Simi, using a ready-made rubber cylinder, thick wire and a block of wood. I must say that it is not easy to make a roller correctly, so try to still buy it in a store (Fig. 4).
An invaluable service in the repair of an apartment can be provided to you ... by a vacuum cleaner. They can remove dust from the ceiling and walls before painting. (If this is not done, then the paint or glue will not adhere well to the finished surface.) Using a vacuum cleaner with a spray gun, moisten the wallpaper that has outlived its age, so that they can be more easily removed from the walls. Finally, the vacuum cleaner is also used as a spray gun (Fig. 5 ). The instructions for the vacuum cleaner tell you how to do it. We recall only the main points.
Rice. 1. Paint brushes
Rice. 2. Homemade whitewash brush
Rice. 3. Spatula
Rice. 4. Paint roller
The suction hose is moved to the pressure side instead of the filter. Then, a container with paint (it should be a can with a standard neck) is put on a lid with a spray gun (it is included with the vacuum cleaner kit). When converting the vacuum cleaner into a spray gun, make sure: firstly, that the lid fits snugly against the neck and, secondly, that the tube from the spray gun does not rest against the bottom of the can.
Rice. 5. Vacuum cleaner sprayer
Of course, when working with a vacuum cleaner-spray gun, skill is needed, but it, as a rule, is acquired quickly. Adjust the flow of liquid when painting by covering the hole on the top of the spray gun with your thumb. The vacuum cleaner evenly paints the surface, so we recommend using it when whitewashing the ceiling: you will save time and the quality of work will be better.
So, for each type of painting work, certain tools are used:
Now let's talk about colors. In what cases is it better to use oil paint, and in which enamel? When water-based polyvinyl acetate, and when acrylate or perchlorovinyl (PVC)? Where is nitro paint suitable, and where are colored varnishes? What paints can be used for finishing surfaces only indoors, and what - for outdoor work. Let's try to answer these questions.
Until recently in repair work mainly oil materials were used. Synthetic paints are now widely used. They are not only not inferior to oil ones, but in many ways even surpass them: they create a more uniform coating, dry faster, are easier to work with, and cheaper.
Many people like water - emulsion paints, which come in a wide variety of colors - white, ivory, cream, singed, dark yellow, pistachio, orange, pink, etc. They have good hiding power, low consumption of material (from 120 to 200 g per 1 m 2 of surface) and give a strong indelible film of a beautiful matte finish. There are water-based paints based on polyvinyl acetate (for example, EVA-27A), polybutadiene styrene (for example, E-KCh-26A) and polyacrylate (for example, E-AK-111). Note that the letter E indicates the emulsion nature of the paint.
If you need to paint walls, partitions, window casings of unheated verandas or utility blocks, it is best to buy E-VA-17 or E-VA-129 water-based paint. Other water-based formulations, such as E-VA-224, are suitable for interior decoration heated rooms.
What are the advantages of water-based paints? They can be used for working on old paints - oil, enamel, emulsion. Before painting the metal parts of windows and doors with a water-based composition, it is only necessary to prime them (twice proliferate, cover with oil paint).
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Few probably know what the letters and numbers on paint cans mean. It turns out that everything is very simple. For example, here is how some of them are deciphered:
MA - oil paints;
GF - paints on glyptal resins;
PF - enamels on pentaphthalic resins;
NTs - paints based on nitrocellulose;
KO - organosilicon paints;
MCh - paints on urine-formaldehyde resins;
BT - paints based on bitumen and pitch;
The number 1 means that the paints can be used for outdoor work, and the number 2 - only for interior. Primers are marked with the number 0, and putties - 00.
Enamel paints are pigments ground with various varnishes. Enamels form after drying an opaque solid protective decorative film with different gloss and surface texture. They are used for painting indoor surfaces. If these surfaces were previously painted with other paints, then the old layer must be washed off or cleaned off. Enamel paints produce several dozen colors. With such paints white color it is good to process window sills, which acquire a dense glossy surface and are easily washed from dirt.
Enamels are divided into oil, alkyd (glyphthalic and pentaphthalic), epoxy, nitrocellulose, etc. Thus, GF-230 enamel (glyphthalic base) is intended for finishing internal surfaces walls located in the room of metal and wood products. For the same purpose, enamel PF-233 (pentaphthalic base) is used.
THIS IS USEFUL TO KNOW
For painting and wallpaper works you can use an ordinary clothes brush if you attach a piece of thick rubber hose to it, cut on one side into two parts. A long stick is inserted into such a hose and they work with a brush, like a fly brush. Thanks to the flexibility of the hose, you can brush whitewash corners and hard-to-reach places, as well as smooth wallpaper on the ceiling or apply glue to the walls.
Nitrocellulose enamels are often used to finish "internal" wood and metal surfaces. Their distinctive feature is the speed of drying (1-3 hours). However, these enamels are flammable and toxic.
For painting wooden surfaces, oil paints are widely used, that is, suspensions of pigments and fillers in drying oils. Both thickly grated oil paints and ready-to-use oil paints are on sale. Thickly ground paints are actually not yet paints, but semi-finished products. And it is impossible to use them without diluting with drying oil.
Note that for oil paints, the fourth group of characters in the cipher indicates the type of drying oil on which the paint is prepared. So, the inscription “Oil paint MA-15” means that the can contains oil paint intended for outdoor work and prepared on a combined drying oil (the last evidence is the number 5). Accordingly, the number 1 indicates natural drying oil, 2 - oxol drying oil, 3 - glyphthalic, 4 - pentaphthalic.
A feature of the designation of thickly ground paints is that in their cipher the number in the third group of characters indicating the predominant purpose is replaced by zero. Thus, the inscription "Paint MA-025 is blue" means that the paint is thickly grated for interior work on combined drying oil. (Do not confuse thick oil paint with a primer!) If the oil paint contains only one type of pigment, then instead of the word “paint”, the name of this pigment is indicated, for example, “ML-25 titanium white”.
The surface to be painted usually has dents, shells, scratches and other defects, which are eliminated and leveled with fillers. Puttying does not increase the protective properties of coatings: too thick and insufficiently elastic putty layer is subject to cracking, as a result of which the strength of the entire coating is impaired.
Putties are applied to well-dried soil with a wooden, plastic or metal spatula (Fig. 33, a-e) (for even surfaces) or a piece of sheet rubber (for curved surfaces). Putties can also be applied with a paint sprayer or special fishing rods with a nozzle with a diameter of 6 mm.
Rice. 33. Hand tools:
a-e - spatulas, w - block for sanding skins, h - scrapers, and - a device for grinding the surface; 1 - canvas, 2 - overlay, 3 - cap, 4 - handle, 5 - bath, 6 - holder, 7 - pads, 8 - soft base, 9 - sandpaper, 10 - clamping screw, 11 - figured scraper, 12 - Scraper with extended handle, 13 - steel brushes
For better adhesion of putty to the ground, the surface is plastered to give it a roughness, and then the dust is removed. The latter is mandatory, since even the thinnest layer of dust sharply impairs adhesion.
For more effective leveling, the surface is first puttied in the most recessed places. After drying, the puttied areas are treated with sandpaper (Fig. 33, g-i), if necessary, these areas or the entire surface are puttied again.
Puttying the surface in more than 3 layers is inefficient. The thickness of each putty layer should not exceed 0.5 mm for oil, varnish and perchlorovinyl putties, 1 mm for epoxy and other similar putties.
Application paintwork materials brush - one of the oldest methods of staining, known for many centuries. Now this operation is used when painting small and complex configurations of areas and surfaces with high-quality and alpine finishes, to correct defects during repairs, etc.
In addition, the method of staining with a brush has a number of advantages - it is simple, the paintwork material adheres well to the base when shaded, materials are economically consumed. The disadvantages include high labor intensity (1m 2 for 4-6 minutes).
The coloring composition is applied with a brush cone without strong pressure, while the material lies in wide stripes, which are then shaded in horizontal and vertical directions. The brush is held at an angle of 45-60° to the surface to be painted.
Rice. 34. Hand tools and fixtures:
a - a tray for rollers and brushes, b - a glass cleaning knife, c - a roller with a stylus, d - wallpaper scissors, e - a roller knife, e - a brush, g - a paint roller, h - a device for cleaning and painting pipes ; 1 - body, 2 - handle, 3 - mesh for rollers, 4 - cells for brushes, 5 - pads, 6 - blade, 7 - clamping screw, 8 - lead clamping screw, 9 - lead, 10 - rail, 11 - roller , 12, 15 - movable clip, 13 - clamp, 14 - brush, 16 - coated writing roller, 17 - working part, 18 - fixed clip, 19 - ejector
There is a wide variety of brushes that differ in size, weight, shape, material and are designed to perform many operations. The best material is pig bristle, which has a naturally tapered shape and bifurcation of the ends of the hair, which allows you to achieve a high quality coverage. For ordinary dyeing, combined brushes made of pig bristle and hair of other animal or vegetable fibers, as well as synthetic materials (nylon, nylon, etc.) are used. The latter are more durable.
The size of the brush corresponds to the type of work. The largest ones are called flywheels, they are used for painting walls, ceilings, floors, roofs, etc. By the mass of bristles they are made in 200, 300, 400 and 600 g, for which the bundles are tied with twine and put on the pointed end of a handle with a length of 1 up to 1.5 m. From above, 1/2-2/3 of the length of the beam, the working part is also wrapped with twine. The remaining free bristles have different lengths for different coloring compositions: shorter - for oil, enamel (with rubbing over the surface), longer - for water.
As the brush wears, the turns are gradually removed. Select with fly brushes with two hands.
Smaller brushes for working with one hand are called handbrakes - round and flat. In round handbrakes, the bristles are glued in a recess at the end of the handle, and in flat ones, they are clamped in a tin or plastic frame of the brush. Handbrake sizes are indicated by even numbers from 6 to 30.
When staining with a stencil, stencil brushes are used, which have shorter and stiffer bristles.
To perform fine lines, stroke (circle) brushes made of long squirrel hair are used.
Rice. 35. Paint brushes (a-g) and trimming (h, i)
Wide soft brushes made of long badger hair - flutes - are used to smooth the freshly painted surface and remove strokes and strokes from the brush. Flutes are made round and flat. When working, the flute is not dipped into the paint, but is used dry and held perpendicular to the surface without pressure.
Trimming brushes are used to roughen the surface. They are made from short bleached bristles mounted on a wooden mandrel measuring 100 x 200 mm. When working with a dry trimming, they strike a freshly painted surface.
For other purposes, special brushes are used: maklovitsy, curly, panel, etc.
For successful work, you must follow certain rules for working with brushes.
Any new brush contains dust and broken hairs and should be washed in warm soapy water and dried.
The best results are obtained with a cone-shaped brush, therefore it is rational to work with a new brush on irresponsible operations on a rough surface (priming), then clean and apply for cover layers.
Before starting work, the brush is “developed” - dipped into the coloring composition, squeezed against the wall, rotated, etc. until the hair bundle is evenly moistened half the length. During operation, the brush is dipped shallowly, tapping on the edge of the working container to evenly distribute the paint.
The paintwork material is applied in a thick layer and then shaded with a brush. It is more convenient to paint large surfaces in parts, making the final hatching in all areas in the same direction to make the borders of adjacent areas invisible. It is necessary to overlap the layer of paint and varnish material before the “wet edge” of the previous surface section begins to dry, otherwise the layer thickens at the border of the sections and, after drying, may wrinkle or differ in color from the rest of the surface.
This technology is suitable for most coloring compositions, but may be partially changed in individual cases. Thus, paints and varnishes for intermediate layers quickly lose their fluidity, especially at elevated temperatures, so they must be applied and covered with "raw" edges skillfully and quickly. In conclusion, it is necessary to hatch enamels, oil and other similar compositions from the bottom up to reduce paint flow. When painting wood, the finishing touches are made along the fibers, when painting ceilings - towards the light.
Staining with a brush is used mainly for slow-drying compositions.
It is much more difficult to apply with a brush fast-drying materials with active volatile solvents, since when applied with repeated layers or when smudged, the underlying layers dissolve and the coating is discontinuous and uneven. If necessary, the first layer should be applied only in one direction without shading, and after drying - the second in the other direction.
At the end of the work, the paintwork material is squeezed from the brush with a spatula or scraper, the brush is wiped, washed in a solvent and dried by rotating in air.
The appearance of fungi and insects on the brush should be avoided, so it should be stored dry wrapped in oiled paper or cellophane.
Brushes made of squirrel, badger and ferret hair are washed from paint with warm water and soap.
The most effective hand tool for applying most coloring compounds, especially water-based and water-based, are paint rollers (Fig. 36) of various designs. The essence of the method of dyeing them is that the paintwork material preliminarily evenly fills the pores of the foam sheathing or the space between the hair of the sheared sheepskin, and when rolling over the surface of the product, it transfers the coloring composition to it and partially shade it.
Rice. 36. Roller with a set of rollers:
1 - knurling roller, 2, 6 - clamping screws, 3 - feed roller, 4 - axle, 5 - detachable bracket, 7 - handle
This method is more productive than the brush method, but it has a limitation, since it can only be used for flat surfaces, although a number of organizations have developed special curly rollers for painting pipes, heating radiators, etc.
When painting flat surfaces, the roller is moved up and down (walls, doors, etc.) or back and forth (ceilings, floors) until the paint on the roller is used up. At the same time, the painter moves along the front of the work, and then back and shade the painted surface with a dry roller. The roller is filled with paint, partially immersed in the paint bath, and rolled over the overlay mesh for its uniform distribution and excess paint flowing back into the paint bath. There are designs with forced ink supply directly into the roller body or through an intermediate roller.
When knurling patterns or stencils, a kind of paint roller with replaceable rubber nozzles is used.
Depending on the purpose, the length of the roller may be different.
Section 1 "Performance of preparatory work in the production of painting work"
Theme of lesson number 2: Manualtools, accessories for painting works.
Lesson type: combined.
The purpose of the lesson:
Learn to distinguish between the types and purposes of tools and devices, and the rules for caring for them.
Develop thinking, cognitive activity and independence, attention, memory, ability to compare.
To cultivate interest in the profession, responsibility in the performance of practical work, accuracy.
Educational and material equipment:
Presentation of the lesson using a computer and a projector.
During the classes
slides (see presentation)
Organizational part (2 minutes)
Checking the presence of students.
Appointment of attendants.
Preparation of abstracts, shift accessories.
Familiarization with the topic of the lesson, setting its goals and objectives.
slide 1
Lesson topic: “Hand tools and accessories for painting.
The purpose of the lesson: To study the types and purposes of tools and devices for
painting works
II. Updating of basic knowledge (3 min)
Checking theoretical knowledge on the topic studied: “The concept of SNiP, its role, principle and application.
Activate the attention of students on issues (in writing)
slide 2
Questions to update previously acquired knowledge.
Question #1: What is the regulatory document that determines the quality of painting work? (SNiP)
Question #2 : What is the role of SNiP? (Norms and rules for the performance of work)
Question #3: The meaning of SNiP? (defines the type of work
Question #4: Read the name of the document "SNiPIII–B.21-73*”?
(SNiP-type; III - part; B.21- chapter; 73 - year; *-revised).
III. Learning new material: (25min)
slide 3
Qualification of tools and devices for painting works.
slide 4
It is worth noting that a very small amount of tools and fixtures for painting work is required and they are all very simple. However, each of them has its own scope.
Main tools:
Putty knife;
brushes;
rollers;
slide 5
brushes
Used to perform various kinds painting workspriming and painting. Brushes are produced different sizes and forms according to GOST.There are fly brushes, whitewash brushes, brush brushes, handbrakes, flutes and trimming brushes.
slide 6
Fly brush.
Fly brushes are used for working with glue and casein compositions. For painting large surfaces. Their feature is a hollow handle, which can be mounted on an extension handle.
To determine the quality of the brush, you need to bend and release its bristles. The hair should immediately return to its original position.
Slide 7
Whitewash brush. For whitewashing, whitewash brushes are used.
Slide 8
Brush-Maklovitsa. Instead of a whitewash brush, you can use a maklovitsa. Serves for big coloring of spreading of wall-paper by glue. The brush handle can be removable or tightly fastened in the middle of the block.
Slide 9
The brush is a handbrake. The brush is a handbrake. Used for small surfaces. In order for the brush to “take” the maximum amount of paint, a void is left in its inner part. If the handbrake bristles are attached with a metal frame,
such a brush is suitable for working with paint of any kind, and it is not recommended to use it with glued bristles for working with lime compositions.
Slide 10
Brush-Fleutz - used for painting surfaces and removing smears, strokes from handbrakes during oil painting.
slide 11
Fillet brush. Panel brushes are round and flat. They are used for pulling panels or painting hard-to-reach areas. Serves for layering thin strips.
slide 12
stencil brush . It has a round shape, it is dense, made of short light bristles, evenly cut to one length. Such a design is necessaryso that the paint does not leak under the edges of the stencil.Stencil brushes got their name depending on the main purpose (applying an even layer of paint through a stencil).
slide 13
Brush - trimming. With the help of trimming, you can achieve a rough surface, so the bristles must be stiff.
Slide 14
Radiator paint brushes. It is used for painting hard-to-reach surfaces such as heating radiators.
Teacher. What else does a painter need to perform painting work? Well, of course, rollers!
slide 15
rollers - are used for painting large flat surfaces. In addition to being handy, they can also be commended for their relative speed in completing various painting tasks.
slide 16
Fur roller. Thanks to natural fur, the rollers evenly apply paint to the surface, and they are also much more durable than artificial ones. Such tools are divided, depending on the length of the pile. The longer the pile, the better the coloring of rough and uneven surfaces will be. These rollers are ideal for applying enamels and oil paints. It is also worth remembering that before working with such a tool, it is advisable to wet it in advance in order to reduce the stiffness of the pile.
Slide 17
Foam roller. Used in the process of working with varnishes, primers, applying glue to wallpaper. Due to the structure of the foam rubber, air bubbles are formed during the painting process, which, when bursting, create an uneven surface. surface
Slide 18
Velor roller. Used when applying emulsions and oil paints. With it, you can evenly paint any surface, without frequent dipping into the paint.
Slide 19
Textured roller with a pattern such rollers can be with a wide variety of textures, for example, in the form of holes, patterns, and so on. They are ideal for creating a variety of decorative effects, most often used with textured finishing materials.
Slide 20
rubber roller . For smoothing wallpaper seams. 40mm cone
slide 21
Spray guns manual and electric available. Manual sprayers are considered the easiest to use, while electric ones, although a little more difficult to use, are much more effective. The performance of the spray gun is much higher than that of brushes and rollers. With this device, you can apply glue and lime paint to the surface, and special paint spray guns are used for thick paints and varnishes.
slide 22
Spatulas - used to prepare the surface for painting work,for putting putty and its alignment on various surfaces. These tools for painting work distinguish between spatulas depending on what material they are made of: metal, rubber or wood.
slide 23
Metal spatula.Andare used for work - puttying. The working part of the tool is a blade, made of elastic steel and must be smooth and carefully polished.
slide 24
Wooden spatula.Used for filling wooden surfaces. Spatulas of this type are made of hardwood - birch, beech, maple.
Slide 25
Rubber spatula. Used for sealing seams and leveling putty. The rubber spatula does not have a handle, most often the tool is made in the form of a trapezoid with a thickening on one side.
slide 26
Angular putty knife - one of the varieties of paintingspatula.Corner spatula align the outer and inner corner zones.Its use gives a clear and even angle line. The corner is evenly saturated with putty and at the same time both surfaces near the corner are puttied. The blade of the angled trowel should be thicker and harder than usual. A large angle trowel is easier to use in plaster, a small one in putty.
Slide 27
Spatula for smoothing all types of wallpaper, except liquid.
Slide 28
Stainless or end trowel - used for applying liquid wallpaper
Slide 29
Scraper painter for surface cleaning
slide 30
Grater for fixing the grinding mesh.
Slide 31
Plumb-line to check the verticality of the surface
slide 32
Devices for hand tools.
Slide 33
Brush and roller care
1. Before you start painting, you should pay a little attention to the preparation of brushes, rollers for work. If the brush, roller are new, you need to immerse in water and soak for an hour.
2. When working, do not press hard on the brush
3. With short breaks in work, the brush and rollers are left in the paint
4. After work, the brushes are dipped into various liquids only to the length of the bristles.
slide 34
For example:
When using water-based paints - water
After oil paint - into drying oil, water, turpentine and kerosene
After enamel or lacquer, a solvent that is suitable for this paintwork material.
IV Consolidation of the studied material (10 min)
Slide 35
.
What is the topic of today's lesson?
slide 36
What types of brushes are used for painting large areas?
a) brushes-handbrakes;
b) fly brushes;
c) brushes;
d) flute brushes.
Slide 37
Answer: For painting large areas, they are used fly brushes
Slide 38
Questions for the primary consolidation of knowledge .
What are flute brushes used for?
a) to give the surface a rough look;
b) for painting large surfaces;
c) to eliminate strokes and stripes left by brushes during oil painting.
Slide 39
Answer:
in)to eliminate strokes and streaks left by brushes during oil painting.
Slide 40
Questions for the primary consolidation of knowledge.
What brushes are used to draw narrow stripes?
Slide 41
Answer: A panel brush is used to draw out narrow stripes.
Slide 42
Questions for the primary consolidation of knowledge.
What is the name of the brush for applying radiators?
slide 43
Questions for the primary consolidation of knowledge.
What is the name of the instrument?
Slide 44
Questions for the primary consolidation of knowledge.
What is the name of the instrument?
Slide 45
After working with oil paint, the brush is lowered ...
After working with enamel paint, the brush or roller is lowered ...
When using water-based paints, the brush or roller is released ...
Slide 46
Thanks for attention!
Summing up the lesson. (5 minutes)
Today at the lesson we learned hand tools, fixtures and tools for surface preparation for painting work.
They worked at the lesson and receive grades ... Full name of students
Homework (Find any painting tool in GOST and indicate its standard size).
K category: Painting works
Tools, inventory and fixtures
To perform painting work, you need a variety of tools, equipment and fixtures. Correct selection Tool maintenance and care not only increase productivity, but also greatly increase tool life.
When doing painting work by hand, brushes are needed. They vary in size, shape and purpose. Make brushes from bristles, bristles with hair and one hair. Single hair brushes are cheaper, but of lower quality.
Fly brushes. In them, the hair is fixed in a metal clip with a handle. There are brushes in the form of a bundle of hair, which requires knitting and sticking on a handle, usually a long one, called a pin (Fig. 1).
Large flywheels are used for painting large surfaces, small ones for small ones.
In addition to flywheel brushes, whitewash brushes and maklovits are used for painting large surfaces.
Rice. 1. Knitting brush: 1 - loop; 2 - putting on a loop on the brush; 3 - winding with twine; 4 - fixing the long end; 5 - finished brush
Whitewash brushes are 200 mm wide, with a short handle. They resemble a kind of wide and thick flute. They work in the same way as with fly brushes. When attaching a whitewash brush to a long handle, it is best to use a brush holder.
The maklovits have a length of 15 to 18.5 cm, a width of 8 and 8.5 cm. Maklovitsa can be mounted on a long handle. To store the maklovitsa on the edges of the bucket, it is advisable to attach a holder to them.
On fig. 2 shows a whitewash brush and maklovitz.
Handbrakes are small, round brushes whose hair (usually bristles) is fixed in a ring or in a thin metal cartridge. The diameter of the handbrake brushes is different.
Flutes - flat brushes made of high quality bristles inserted into a metal clip, mounted on a short wooden handle. They are mainly used to smooth freshly applied paint after brushing. The width of the flanges is from 30 to 150 mm.
Panel brushes are made from hard bristles fixed in a metal cartridge-frame. The diameter of the brushes is from 5 to 20 mm. They are used for painting small places and stretching panels (narrow stripes). Panel brushes are round and flat.
Sheperki are flat and finger. Their width is from 50 to 150 mm. They are thinner than flutes. They are used for painting places where it is impossible to work with a flute, as well as for splitting (cutting) surfaces when painting them under precious woods and decorative stones.
Rice. 2. Whitewash brush and brush
Brush work is done differently. New brushes should be slightly processed, or, as they say, trimmed. If the brushes are made of bristles, then they only need to be moistened in water and worked on some rough surface for 20-30 minutes. Separate hairs will be erased, and the brush will be better at applying paint.
If the brush is made of hair, then it can be burned slightly on fire, which achieves the removal of separately protruding hairs.
After each day of work, the brushes are washed, completely removing the paint from them, and hung upside down to dry, after giving the brushes the shape of a torch. The better the brush is washed, the longer its service life.
When working with any brush, paint should be collected in such an amount that it does not drain from the brush. Excess paint is squeezed out on the edge of the dish. It is recommended to mix the paint periodically.
Working with a fly brush, it must be periodically rotated in the hands, which wears out the hair more evenly. First, the brush is placed on the surface and a slight pressure is applied to it. As the paint is used up, the pressure increases.
The brush should put even strokes of paint, of normal thickness. With an excess, the paint flows, with a shortage, there are unpainted places. So that the paint does not flow down the pin onto the hands, at a distance of 30-50 cm from the brush, the pin is tied with a rag.
When working with a brush, strokes should be applied correctly. In all cases, strokes of paint must be crossed at right angles.
When painting walls, strokes of paint should first be applied horizontally and then vertically, carefully blending the paint, without gaps and rough stripes. It is best to work together: one applies horizontal strokes of paint, the other vertical (Fig. 3).
Rice. 3. Painting walls with fly brushes: 1 - applying horizontal strokes; 2 - drawing vertical strokes
When the paint is poorly opaque, the work has to be redone, i.e., painted for the third time. To do this, the paint is prepared thicker than it was, and it is reapplied to the surface, shading with vertical strokes.
If staining is provided for three times, then the paint is first applied with vertical strokes, then horizontal and for the third time again vertical.
Ceilings are painted taking into account the incidence of light and direct the finishing touches in the direction of the light rays.
The handles work the same way. It should be remembered that the thinner the layer of paint is applied, the higher the quality of the finish and the more evenly the paint lays down.
Flattening and facing are performed in order to even out previously applied layers of paint with brushes. When working with a flute, traces of paint left by a brush are destroyed. Flute over freshly applied paint. The flute should only lightly touch the painted surface with its end, smoothing out coarsely applied traces of paint. The flute is wiped off the paint in the process of work.
When working by trimming, fresh paint applied with a brush is leveled and a texture resembling shagreen (small tubercles) remains on the surface. Trimming is applied with uniform, not strong, trimming blows, but so that it touches the surface with all its hair. Hitting the same place multiple times is not recommended.
On fig. 4 shows the painting of surfaces with different brushes.
Rice. 4. Coloring with different brushes: 1 - with handbrakes; 2 - fluting; 3 - facing; 4 - staining with white brushes "brush to brush"
Instead of brushes, rollers are widely used. They are more productive than brushes and give the applied coloring, as it were, the texture of large shagreen. Roller diameter can be from 40 to 70 mm, length - from 100 to 250 mm. Rollers are made of fur and foam rubber.
The fur roller (Fig. 5) consists of a handle with a rod and an axis on which the roller is attached. The axle has a washer and a nut. The roller can be wooden, but hollow duralumin is better. Metal bushings are attached to the wooden roller. A sewn fur stocking made of zigeyka or sheepskin with wool no longer than 15-20 mm is put on the roller. You can use fluffy fabric. Since the roller picks up a lot of paint, it is squeezed out on the grid, which is installed obliquely in the tray. Instead of mesh, you can use a sheet of steel with holes with a diameter of not more than 10 mm. For this purpose, you can use a cone-shaped bucket.
The foam roller (Fig. 6) is made from foam rubber by drilling it with a special cutter. The cutter is made in the form of a cylinder of the desired diameter with walls no more than 1 mm thick. The length of the cutter-cylinder is 130-150 mm. At one end they arrange cloves, like a saw. The other end is closed with a bottom (lid), to which the shank is welded. For the last cutter is mounted in the chuck of the drilling machine. Inside the cutter, a hollow tube with a diameter of 10 mm is placed on the thread, equal to the length of the cutter. One end of the tube is threaded, the other sharply sharpened. By fixing the cutter in the chuck and setting the drilling machine at high speeds, it is possible to drill rollers with a hole in the middle from an array of foam rubber. To reduce friction, it is recommended to lubricate the cutter from the outside and inside with machine oil.
A tube is inserted into the hole of the roller, which is put on the axle with a nut and washer.
A machine in the form of scissors of two twin rollers is convenient for painting individual racks of stairwells, balconies, etc. This increases labor productivity compared to working with a brush.
Roller painting is done like this. For work, a bath or a bucket with squeezing nets installed in them is used, which are needed in order to squeeze out excess paint collected by rollers on them, squeezing the excess paint, put the roller against the surface of the wall or ceiling and lead it in the right direction on the walls from top to bottom, and on the ceilings -towards light rays.
Rice. 5. Fur roller
Rice. 6. Foam roller
Practice has shown that with rollers it is best to first apply horizontal strokes of paint on the walls, then vertical ones. From crossing, the paint lays down in more even layers. First, the first strip is carried out with a roller, then the second strip is carried out next to it, but so that the edges of the paint overlap by at least 4-5 cm. This is necessary so that there are no gaps at the joints.
Sometimes the paint is applied with brushes, but rolled over it with rollers, leveling it and thereby obtaining an even color. Before starting work with rollers, it is recommended to carry out a trial work. Rollers can paint up to 300 m2 per day. With the correct mode of operation, one roller can paint up to 4-5 thousand m2.
On fig. 7 shows roller painting.
To separate the panel from the top of the wall, a panel is drawn along the junction line of two paints, that is, a narrow strip, the color of which is matched to the color of the panel. Sometimes, instead of one panel, two or three are carried out. The width of the panels varies. Narrow - from 5 to 10 mm, medium - from 12 to 18 mm, wide - from 20 to 30 mm.
Panels can be made with adhesive, oil and other paint compositions.
Panels are removed with panel and finger brushes, simple and detachable, or with special devices. Pulling is carried out along a ruler, one side of which has a chamfer. The ruler is chamfered against the wall, but so that the chamfered side is at the top.
The ruler is taken from 100 to 150 cm long. Since it is impossible to draw an exact even line along one ruler, you have to first punch the line with a chalked cord, attach a ruler to this line and pull out the panel.
To beat the lines, they take a thin strong cord, chalk it with chalk or some other dry paint (ocher is best), put it in the right place, pull it tightly, then the cord is pulled away from the surface of the wall or ceiling by 10-15 cm and released. Striking against the surface, the cord leaves traces of paint on it in the form of a thin line.
Rice. 7. Coloring with a roller: 1 - picking up paint; 2 - staining
Having attached the ruler to the line broken off by the cord, the panel brush is moistened in color, put to the ruler and, with exactly the same pressure, the panel is drawn.
Rice. 8. Pulling out panels
The panel can be removed using a stencil or a finger brush, but it is better to do this with a special device.
Paint for work is poured into a jar, which is fixed on the belt.
For adhesive paint compositions, paint for panels is taken with ordinary adhesive or prepared from chalk and pigment.
On fig. 8 shows the extrusion of the panels.
- Tools, inventory and fixtures
Painting tools.
Brushes.
There are several varieties, each of which has its own name. The use of one or another type of brush depends on the type of work performed.
Fly brushes- are used when painting large surfaces of walls and ceilings. Fly brushes are produced mainly large sizes(diameter 60-65 mm). The length of the flywheel hair is about 100mm, the hair itself can be additionally strengthened with a metal ring. It is not very convenient to work with a brush with such long hair, therefore, for convenience in work, they resort to shortening the length of the hair by tying (winding) it with strong twine 2-3 mm thick. The width of the winding must be at least 50mm.
Handbrakes- these are small-sized brushes (26-54 mm in diameter) with a short handle, used when painting small surfaces with glue and oil paints. Handbrakes are pre-tied with twine, which is gradually unwound during work, as the hair wears out, thereby increasing its length. Handbrake binding is performed in such a way that the length of the remaining hair is no more than 40 mm for large handbrakes and 25-30 mm for small ones.
Flutes- wide flat brushes, 25-100 mm wide, used for leveling irregularities in paint and varnish coatings after performing work with a fly brush or handbrake. Often flutes are used directly for staining.
Whitewash brushes- serve for finishing surfaces with glue and casein paints. Outwardly, the whitewash brush resembles a flute, has a width of 200mm, a thickness of 45-65mm, and a hair length of up to 100mm. The use of whitewash brushes allows you to achieve a cleaner coloring of the surface than when using fly brushes. In addition, whitewash brushes are 2 times more productive than flywheels.
Maklovitsa- consists of a block with bristles and a handle attached to the middle of the block (with screws or tightly). Pads can be round and rectangular. The bristle length of this brush is up to 100mm. Maclovitz, as well as whitewash brushes, are recommended for use on glue and casein stains. As well as fly brushes, maklovits are used for painting large surfaces.
Trimming- a rectangular brush made of hard spinal bristles. Used on freshly painted surfaces. Trimming is applied evenly, smoothing out the unevenness of the paint applied with a brush. Usually surfaces painted with glue and oil paint are subject to trimming. Trimming must remain dry and clean, therefore, in the process of work, it must be wiped as often as possible.
Panel brushes- designed to pull out narrow strips, called panels, painting small surfaces, as well as hard-to-reach places where the handbrake does not go. Panel brushes can be round and flat. They are made of white stiff bristles fixed in a metal frame with a diameter of 6-18mm. If necessary, panel brushes, like handbrakes, can be tied.
rollers- often used when carrying out painting work instead of a brush. With their help, you can get a textured surface “under the shagreen”.
Rollers are fur and foam rubber. For painting surfaces with oil and enamel compositions, fur rollers are used, for painting with water-based compositions, foam rubber rollers are used. Rollers are made with a diameter of 40 to 70 mm and a length of 100 to 300 mm. To work with a roller, a machine is required, consisting of a handle, a rod and an axis. The roller is put on the axis of the machine and fixed on it with a washer and nut.
Spatulas- are used in the production of painting works for applying and leveling (smoothing) a putty layer on surfaces prepared for painting, as well as for cleaning these surfaces. Spatulas can be metal and wooden, can have a variety of shapes and differ somewhat from each other in their design.
A metal spatula consists of a blade cut from elastic thin steel (0.5-1 mm), a shank attached to the blade, and a handle mounted on the shank.
For the manufacture of wooden spatulas, dry hardwood is used. To prevent warping, wooden spatulas are additionally impregnated with hot drying oil, and after puttying, they are stored by inserting them into a crevice between two boards knocked down at an angle.
Spatulas with wide blades are used for puttying large surfaces, with narrow blades for puttying bars, doors, bindings, etc. Spatulas with teeth at the end of the blade are used when applying mastics and adhesives to surfaces.
While working, it is advisable to have several different spatulas on hand. In some cases, hard rubber strips with evenly cut edges are used instead of metal spatulas. In order to make it convenient to use such strips, they are clamped into a wooden or metal handle.