Facade finishing is one of the most important construction operations. Exterior wall cladding is exposed to precipitation, freeze/freeze cycles and harsh ultraviolet rays. Such difficult operating conditions put forward increased demands on the quality of the finish. Eliminating defects on facade walls is very expensive and time consuming. We will have to mount scaffolding, wait for good weather, remove construction debris. To prevent the occurrence of unpleasant situations, you need to take all measures to prevent them.

Finishing of front walls is carried out by various materials and technologies. The reinforcing stack is used in two cases.

To improve the performance of the plaster layer. For such purposes, it is better to use metal mesh from galvanized wire.

All-metal mesh

The fact is that among the many advantages of foam blocks, it is necessary to pay attention to one very significant drawback - low physical strength. Another problem is that concrete blocks begin to crumble when freezing / freezing in conditions of high specific humidity. As a result, cement plaster begins to peel off with all the negative consequences.

The reinforcing mesh allows the plaster to adhere to the wall surface. The talk that such a grid should be used with a large thickness of the plaster, that due to this, cracks do not appear on the plaster, have only a partial confirmation. First, there are simpler and cheaper methods to prevent cracks from appearing in thick plaster. The simplest is to throw the solution in a thin layer in several stages. Secondly, it is possible to increase the adhesion of the mortar with the facade wall due to a slight increase in the amount of cement in the mortar. If this is not enough, then a spray of cement milk is done.

To protect the insulation of facade walls from destruction. The reinforcing facade mesh is used during the finishing of foam insulation boards.

Not to improve the fixation of the adhesive to the surface of the expanded polystyrene and to prevent cracks, as some "sofa" builders write, but for mechanical protection.

Why do we say so? The surface of expanded polystyrene is protected from the negative effects of ultraviolet rays and, oddly enough, from damage by birds. For some unknown reason, birds are very fond of pecking foam, if left unprotected, then soon many large and small depressions will appear on the surface. Conclusion - polystyrene foam must be closed. The cheapest and most reliable method is to use glue.

By the way, the advertising characteristics of manufacturers of plastic reinforcing meshes “they are not afraid of UV” do not affect their actual performance in any way. The fact is that even the thinnest layer of glue or other cement-sand mixture does not completely transmit ultraviolet rays. Why should a consumer pay for properties they don't need? And one more nuance. Most often, builders fix the reinforcing mesh on the entire wall. We think that this is done or out of ignorance physical properties or the desire to earn more. We recommend using a reinforcing mesh to a height of 1.5–2.0 meters, there is no need to go higher. No one will damage the finish screed on foam plastic so high. Mechanical damage occurs due to various impacts, careless chores near the facade wall, etc.

Types of facade reinforcing meshes

Facade reinforcing meshes are made of galvanized wire or polymers. The former are used for facade plaster, and the latter for universal use.

NameCell sizes, mmRoll dimensions, ma brief description ofApproximate cost, rubles
Safety2×21×50Production material - fiberglass, used to reinforce plaster near door and window openings, to align the joints of insulation boards900
OXISS5×51×50The mesh has a reinforced protection against alkalis, can withstand significant dynamic and static forces for a long period of action.1050
Facade fiberglass mesh5×51×50For holding plaster of concrete facades and insulation boards. Withstands a tensile load of at least 1400 N/cm.1400
STREN C522×352×25 2×50Withstands rough and fine facade plaster up to 5 cm thick.2750
KREPIKS Facade 13004×41×50Fiberglass, there is protection against alkalis and ultraviolet radiation.1560
KREPIKS Facade 15005×51×50Reduces the likelihood of cracking due to thermal linear expansion1970
KREPIKS Facade 20004×41×50For reinforcing finishing plasters during the finishing of the insulation layer of the facade2300
6×6, Ø 0.6 mm1x15Increased strength, resistant to precipitation and sunlight1110
10×10, Ø 0.8 mm1x15For rough facade plasters with a thickness of 3–5 cm1330
25×25, Ø 1.0 mm1×25For strengthening facade walls, universal use. Hot dip galvanized wire, minimum coating thickness 20 µm1770
TsPVS grid20×20, Ø 0.5 mm1×25All-metal expanded metal. It has an increased area of ​​contact with a solution of facade plaster.580

Modern facade mesh

Metal mesh fixing technology

Metal meshes are used only for cement-sand facade plasters, foam insulation is not finished with them. The reason is the small thickness of the screed on foam boards. And the metal mesh cannot be aligned with such accuracy, it must be pressed with a thick layer of mortar. The metal facade reinforcing mesh is able to withstand great efforts, it is used if it is necessary to apply a thick layer of plaster on an uneven base.

The fixation algorithm has several features, the implementation of which guarantees the expected effect. You can lay the grid in both vertical and horizontal stripes. For the strength of the plaster, this does not matter, decide for yourself how it is more convenient for you to work. How to properly fix the metal mesh to the facade wall?

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the wall, cut the metal mesh along them. Select the cutting tool according to the wire diameter. Universal tool - scissors for metal.

If they are not there, then a thin mesh with a wire diameter of up to 0.8 mm can be cut with ordinary scissors. True, after that these scissors will have to be sharpened, they will no longer cut the paper.

Step 2 The metal mesh can be fixed with dowels, the length of the hardware should provide a strong fixation. For facade walls made of foam blocks, ordinary nails 80–90 mm long can be used. They are easily hammered into blocks with an ordinary hammer, working with them is much faster and easier. Nails are much cheaper than dowels, and the quality of fixation is no different. Use dowels only on brick or concrete facade walls.

Step 3 Using an electric drill with a hammer drill, drill the first hole for the mesh. The depth of the holes should be several centimeters greater than the length of the plastic part. Otherwise, it is impossible to insert the dowel to the desired depth - the hole is slightly filled with brick chips during drilling and reduces its effective depth. It is difficult to remove it from there, it is better to drill more.

Important. The height of the protruding part of the dowels should not exceed the thickness of the plaster. Follow this parameter on the entire area of ​​​​the facade wall so that during plastering you do not have to adjust the dowels.

Step 4 Drill holes in one line at a distance of about fifty centimeters, hang a net on each dowel. Pull it a little, do not allow large irregularities. The position of the line does not matter, it can be vertical or horizontal, depending on the method of attaching the reinforcing metal mesh.

Step 5 Check the position of the opposite edge of the grid, if it is uneven, then move the grid to adjacent cells.

Fastening plaster mesh- scheme

Step 6 Everything is normal - continue to fix the grid, install the dowels in a checkerboard pattern. Most metal meshes are one meter wide, you will need three rows of hardware to fix them.

Important. In places where two rolls overlap, install the dowels at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the edge. Two strips of reinforcing mesh will be hung on these dowels at the same time.

Step 7 In places of window and door openings, the mesh is cut to size. But there is nothing to worry about if you do not cut it off, but simply bend it. Just make sure that the edges of the bent sections do not protrude beyond the thickness of the plaster layer.

During the plastering of such a facade wall, the mortar must be applied in several stages. For the first time, the mass should be a little thicker than for the final alignment. Specific values ​​​​depend on several indicators and are determined individually, taking into account the practical experience of the master. The consistency of the mortar is influenced by the weather, the ability of the facade walls to absorb moisture, the linearity of the wall, the maximum parameters of the irregularities, etc.

Step-by-step instructions for fixing plastic meshes

The durability of its operation largely depends on the correct implementation of the recommendations for installing a plastic reinforcing mesh on a foam insulation. In all cases, do not rush, work carefully. We have already mentioned that there is no need to reinforce the entire wall in height, it is enough to protect only the lower vulnerable area. But these are our recommendations, if in doubt - protect the entire surface of the facade wall.

Any brand of glue is suitable for gluing the mesh. Read the instructions, it should have high adhesion with plastic materials. In most cases, a final layer of adhesive several millimeters thick is applied over the plastic reinforcing mesh. The final coating is done with facade paints or a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 1. Examine the surface of the plates. If they were fixed with dowels, then completely drown the hats and close the recesses. At the same time, you can close the slots, but this is not necessary. The fact is that the slots will automatically close during the application of the first layer.

Step 2 On the wall, draw a horizontal line along the height of the reinforcing layer. It will help to monitor the height of the application of glue. A thin layer of material dries quickly, and this not only causes an increase in material consumption, but also negatively affects the final leveling of the layer for painting.

Step 3 Prepare the adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions. Always fill the container with water first, and then add the dry mix. This technology will greatly simplify the mixing process. Mixing can be done manually with a trowel or with a mixing attachment to an electric drill.

The second method is not only easier, but also more effective. You need to mix for several minutes, and then leave the mixture to stand for another 5-6 minutes. During this time, the moisture will be evenly distributed throughout the volume, the smallest dry lumps of glue will completely disappear.

Step 4 The glue is applied to the wall with a spatula, the longer it is, the smoother the surface is in the end. Professionals work with spatulas up to 70 cm in size, beginners can use shorter ones at first.

Practical advice. If you are just learning how to apply glue to the surface, then it is better to immediately get used to working with both hands. One gets tired - connect the second hand. Believe me, it is not so difficult, you just need to show a little endurance and patience.

Apply glue to the spatula with a trowel in the center of the tool. Quantity will be determined empirically. While applying the layer, hold the spatula at an angle to the foam plates, press with medium force. Achieve a layer thickness of approximately 2-3 millimeters. Do not prepare a large amount of surface at once; for beginners, two meters per dyne is enough. If you do not have time to fix the mesh, the glue will harden, you will have to remove the old layer and make a new one.

Step 5 Try on the location of the plastic reinforcing mesh. If it does not fit into the window opening, trim the material.

Step 6 Glue one end of the grid, align it horizontally to the length of the prepared section of the wall. Make sure that the mesh lies flat without distortions and bends, be guided by a pre-drawn line on the foam.

Practical advice. The mesh should overlap with about ten centimeters. You can find recommendations not to smear the place of overlap of one line with glue, but to do it simultaneously for two rows. We do not recommend doing this, it only complicates the work. Glue the first row of mesh immediately across the entire width, including the overlap. The second line will be glued on top of the freshly applied glue. This method simplifies mesh fixation and has a positive effect on quality.

Step 7 With your hand, press the mesh to fresh glue in several places, check its position again.

Step 8 With a spatula, begin to press the mesh to the surface of the insulation. Make sure that the glue of the first layer protrudes over the entire surface and evenly covers the mesh cells on the front side. If there are places with insufficient thickness of the adhesive, apply it again over the reinforcing mesh. Such omissions may appear in inexperienced craftsmen. Over time, you will learn to determine the optimal thickness of the glue by eye and there will be no more gaps. Smear excess solution on free surfaces. You should not try to immediately make the surface perfectly flat, but you need to strive for such a result.

Step 9 Give the glue time to dry. It is better to leave it overnight, it is recommended to finish the surface grouting the next day.

That's the whole technology, the surface of the facade wall is prepared for painting or finishing with other materials. We remind you once again that plastic reinforcing mesh on insulated facades is used not to prevent cracks on the adhesive surface, but to prevent mechanical damage to the foam. Keep this in mind when making a decision.

Facade mesh for building protection

Compliance with safety precautions during the construction works on multi-storey buildings - one of the main requirements for all developers. This is especially true of objects being built within cities. The facade mesh is fixed on the scaffolding and prevents construction debris and tools from falling onto pedestrian walkways. For such purposes, the cheapest of the plastic reinforcing meshes is used; after dismantling, it is suitable for direct use.

"Emerald" - a new grid for scaffolding

Question answer

Is it possible to repair exfoliated sections with reinforcement facade mesh? It is possible, but it is better not to allow such situations. Unfortunately, in most cases, delaminations appear several months or years after finishing the insulated facade walls.

How is the repair done?

  1. Revise the delaminated area. By hand, check the strength of the fixation of the mesh next to the exfoliated area. Prepare materials: glue and a piece of plastic reinforcing mesh. If the facade walls are painted, then you need to have the appropriate paint.
  2. Pull the peeled mesh towards you and cut it around the perimeter with a sharp mounting knife. Be very careful not to damage the foam. If during cutting the sect continues to flake off - excellent. In this way, you remove the entire problem area; in any case, it would exfoliate over time.
  3. Cut out a new mesh for the patch, the size should be slightly larger than the freed area for the overlap.
  4. Remove a layer of old glue from the surface of the foam.
  5. With a spatula, carefully remove the top layer of glue from the surface of the remaining mesh to the width of the new overlap. Apply the first layer of glue, sink the mesh into it and apply the second layer of glue.
  6. After it dries, smooth it out. Pay special attention to the connection point. It should be as even as possible without sudden changes in height.

How does the quality of a plastic mesh depend on its price? Almost nothing. When choosing a grid, pay attention to the thickness of the canvas and the size of the grid cells. All other characteristics are nothing more than advertising ploys of manufacturers.

What is better than a plastic anti-corrosion coating of a metal reinforced mesh from galvanizing? Nothing, in addition, the price of such a mesh is higher than with galvanized wire. You need to know that the adhesion of all cement mortars to plastics is much lower than to galvanized surfaces. As for the service life and bearing capacity, these indicators are absolutely identical.

Is it possible to do without reinforcing mesh when plastering uneven facade walls? Not only possible, but necessary. We have already talked about simpler and effective methods work with such surfaces. Reinforcement with metal mesh is not used to prevent cracks, but to increase the bearing capacity cement-sand mortars. It is needed during the floor screed. One more nuance. The parameters of linear thermal expansions of the metal and the solution are significantly different. This means that microcracks will definitely appear in the places where cement and metal mesh adhere, because outdoor temperatures fluctuate significantly. There are no such fluctuations in enclosed spaces.

Should reinforcing mesh be used on the plinth surfaces of facade walls? Use this technology only for foam-insulated plinths. In all other cases, it is not needed.

Photo - a pie made of insulation and mesh for reinforcement

How much does the cost of finishing facade walls increase due to the use of reinforcing mesh? The cost of finishing increases by no more than 3-5%. But if we take into account possible repairs due to mechanical damage to the foam, then a slight increase in cost is fully justified.

Video - How to glue reinforcing mesh

Plaster is rightfully one of the most better ways alignment of vertical surfaces. Properly produced, this finish retains its quality over the years. However, only if all its components are firmly and securely attached to the wall. And to ensure such reliability just allows such a product as a plaster mesh.

The main property of this mesh is the reinforcement of the wall. You can mount a similar element on a brick or concrete surface. Its presence allows the layer of material to be distributed more evenly and securely fixed on the wall surface, without falling off even under strong external influences. In this case, the importance of the mesh is especially important when a thick layer of material should be placed on the wall, as is often done to level the surface and hide flaws in concrete.

Types of plaster mesh

Today, there are several types of this element on the market, which are divided according to their facade methods, material of manufacture, as well as cell parameters. Some of them are used for outdoor work, and some are used indoors. Here are the main types:

  • Masonry grid. It is applied for brickwork and has cells with a diameter of 5 millimeters. It is made on the basis of polymeric substances;
  • Stelox mesh. Versatile due to its chemical resistance and physical strength attributed to fiberglass. The cell diameter is 5 millimeters;
  • Universal. The material of manufacture is polyurethane, the dimensions of the cells can be 6x6, 13x15 or 22x35 millimeters;
  • Armaflex. It is made of polypropylene, but differs from the usual mesh with reinforced knots. Able to withstand a large layer of plaster. Actually, it is in these works that it is used. Cell dimensions are 12x15 millimeters;
  • Plurima. Material used for both outdoor and indoor use. It is made on the basis of polypropylene and has small cell sizes - 5x6 millimeters. It can be used for both interior and exterior finishing works, it is resistant to chemicals;
  • Syntoflex. Polypropylene mesh with a mesh size of 12x14 and 22x35 millimeters. Can be used for all types of work;
  • Metal grids. Extremely durable, steel base. Some models can be used exclusively in interior work, while others are galvanized and are universal. Cell sizes in such grids can be very different.

Rules for choosing a plaster mesh

First of all, when purchasing this reinforcing material, you must clearly understand in what kind of work you will use it, and whether it is needed at all. Based on this, select specifications. But regardless of the direction of use, such a grid must meet several criteria, for which certain tests can be carried out. General rules choice:

  • In the event that the plaster layer is less than 20 millimeters, then the mesh can not be used at all;
  • If the thickness of the plaster exceeds 3 centimeters, then only a metal mesh will do;
  • With a thickness of 2-3 centimeters, a fiberglass mesh will be the ideal solution;
  • Plastic mesh is designed to work with gypsum plasters. In the case of using cement or other analogues, its use is not recommended;
  • When plastering the basement, as well as leveling the wall for the subsequent laying of tiles, you can use a mesh based on fiberglass.

Important! In the event that the height difference on the wall is more than 5 centimeters, then the ideal solution would be to abandon the plaster and install the same plasterboard or other panels on a pre-assembled frame. If we are talking about the ceiling, then you can use suspended or stretch versions of the latter.

Testing the quality

If time permits, buy a small piece of mesh and test it for alkaline resistance. For this you need to place this network in an alkaline solution for about 25 days, after which try to break. If you have noted a strong decrease in tensile strength, then it is better to look for other options. In addition, you can crush the product into a ball, and then see if it takes its original shape. If so, the network is of good quality.

Important! The above tests can be avoided if you are a buyer of plaster mesh in proven places where you can be sure of the quality of the product being sold.

Installation of fiberglass plaster mesh

In order to properly fix the fiberglass mesh to concrete or other surface, it is necessary to start from the top, fixing the material with self-tapping screws for the upper cells. Moving down, we will mount around the perimeter, which should be enough. When applying plaster, the grid itself will grab well with the surface.

When laying two nets nearby, it is necessary to make a slight overlap. Remember that it is necessary to measure the material in such a way that its pieces are as large as possible. A solid mesh reinforces better than one that is divided into fragments.

Important! Try to arrange the mesh in such a way that after applying a layer of plaster, the material is sunk into its surface at a distance of about half a centimeter. This will provide the highest quality reinforcement.

How to properly attach a metal mesh

  • The latter must take on much more pressure, so its fastenings must be made as reliable as possible. The process itself is divided into several stages:
  • Installation starts from the top. The pre-degreased mesh is fixed to the top row of cells using self-tapping screws along the entire length of the wall. At the same time, a mounting tape or washers are placed under the caps of the fasteners so that the mesh does not fly out later;
  • In the case of concrete or brick walls, holes are pre-drilled where plastic dowels are inserted. The holes themselves must be drilled in a checkerboard pattern with a chic of about half a meter;
  • The grids must be installed with an overlap, the thickness of which is approximately equal to 8-10 centimeters. It is necessary to try to position the fasteners in such a way that they pull the mesh very tightly, like a string. Otherwise, under the weight of the applied plaster, sagging will begin to appear, which in turn will lead to the formation of voids and a decrease in the quality of the finish;
  • Plaster beacons are placed on the installed grid.

Important! Before attaching the mesh to the wall surface, the latter must be completely free of dust and dirt.

Reinforcement of the leveling coating on vertical building structures significantly increases its strength.

Proper fastening of the mesh under the plaster will achieve a high quality surface.

Steel wire, composite or polymer fiber, located in the thickness of the coating, takes on the main load.
The reinforcing mesh relieves stress, prevents the formation of cracks and peeling of the plaster from the wall surface.

These phenomena occur as a result of the following factors:
1. large temperature difference environment;
2. high humidity and its fluctuations;
3. water penetration into the plaster layer during rain or melting ice and snow;
4. shock and other mechanical influences.

The use of reinforcing mesh and methods of its use is regulated by SNiP 3.04.01-87.
This document establishes General requirements to external and internal surfaces to be processed. The maximum possible thickness of one layer of plaster should not exceed 15 mm for cement-sand and lime colloidal mortars. For coatings with a gypsum binder, this figure should not exceed 20 mm.
The reinforcing mesh is used in the process of both external and internal works. Strengthening the plaster layer is carried out when applying it to brick, stone and monolithic walls.
Methods for attaching meshes to surfaces, as well as their type for this particular structure is established by the design documentation. One of the factors determining the choice of a particular material is the price.

Reinforcing mesh classification

Industry building materials offers consumers a wide range of products of this type.
The classification of reinforcing networks for finishing work is carried out according to various criteria, and in particular:
1. by material: steel, fiberglass and polymers;
2. according to the manufacturing method: punched, welded, wicker and others;
3. by cell size or density.

Low carbon galvanized steel has the same coefficient of thermal expansion as concrete. This circumstance determines the use this material for the manufacture of reinforcing meshes.
Even with significant temperature fluctuations, there are no additional stresses in the places where steel and plaster collide, which can subsequently lead to destructive phenomena.
One of the most inexpensive types of mesh is expanded metal, which is made from sheet metal 0.35-0.55 mm thick. On special equipment, through-cutting of straight holes in a checkerboard pattern is made.
At the next stage, the sheet is drawn, the mesh is formed and rolled into rolls. Product width - 1 m with a length of 10 m in one packaging unit.
Production of reinforcing meshes for plastering walls and other building structures organized in accordance with GOST R 52751-2007 and GOST 3826-82. Regulatory documentation defines the methods of product packaging and labeling, as well as the conditions of transportation and storage. It is not recommended to leave steel or composite mesh outdoors for a long time.

The use of reinforcing materials

Plastering work from outside or internal surfaces walls are held under certain conditions. In rooms, for example, windows and doors should be installed, and heating appliances should be turned on in winter.
When processing outdoors, the ambient temperature should be between +8 and + 35 ° C, and the surfaces should be protected from rainfall and direct sun rays.
When performing work on plastering the surface of the walls with your own hands, the need to use reinforcing materials is first determined. To do this, it is carefully examined and examined. With the help of a steel or aluminum rail with a length of at least two meters, the parameters of wall deviations from the plane in a horizontal and vertical position are set.
The instruction prescribes measurements at least in five places at one position of the rail. If the measurement results exceed 20 mm, then the use of a reinforcing mesh is necessary.

Other indications for strengthening a layer of plaster or putty:

1. finishing work is carried out on a heater: expanded polystyrene or polystyrene;
2. the load-bearing wall did not accept the full load, the construction of the upper floors was not completed;
3. the structure was built relatively recently and the shrinkage process has not yet ended.
The choice of reinforcing mesh is determined by the thickness of the intended plaster layer. So, if this parameter does not exceed 30 mm, then the use of a grid of polymers or composites is recommended.
With a plaster thickness of up to 50 mm, a steel braided or welded reinforcing fabric is required. With large deviations, it is better to refuse to apply sand-cement or gypsum mortars altogether.

Calculation of the required amount of materials and tools

To provide the work with everything necessary, a preliminary purchase of mesh and fastenings is made. The calculation of the need for materials is carried out on the basis of the measurement of the wall or its section, where it is supposed to strengthen the facing layer.
When purchasing materials, you should purchase a mesh with a small margin of 5-10% in order to compensate for the overlap of the sheets with each other.
For the installation of a reinforcing coating in brick, stone, aerated concrete masonry, you need:
impact drill with a set of drills for concrete or a hammer drill;
metalwork hammer;
cordless or mains screwdriver;
screwdriver.
The mesh is fastened using quick assembly kits and a steel washer with an outer diameter of 20-25 mm. The use of this method of installation provides sufficient adhesion strength of the plaster to the wall and virtually eliminates the possibility of its detachment.

Reinforcing mesh fastenings by indentation method

This method is good, first of all, low costs and does not require additional costs for fasteners.
Executed in the following order:
1. the first layer of plaster or putty is applied to the prepared wall;
2. a mesh of reinforcing material is applied to the uncured coating;
3. using a spatula or trowel, it is pressed into the covering layer until it is completely drowned in it;
4. the plaster is leveled and left alone until completely dry.
The described technology is good in relatively small areas and cannot be applied with continuous surface reinforcement. It is difficult to achieve rapid application of plaster compositions over large areas with subsequent reinforcement.

Mounting the mesh on the dowel nails

This method guarantees high reliability of the connection of the plaster with the surface.
In this case, the plaster mesh is fastened as follows:

1. holes are made in the wall with a puncher or impact drill and plastic plugs are hammered into them;
2. dowel-nails with washers are screwed into them;
3. a mesh is hung on the installed fasteners;
4. Screw the screws with a screwdriver until they stop or hammer them in.

Useful advice: in preparation for hanging the mesh, you must first install two fasteners along the edge of the wall. Intermediate points are made every 0.5 - 0.6 m in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface of the reinforcing coating. Be sure to place fasteners in places where the sheets overlap.

Reliable fastening of the grid for plaster will avoid premature destruction of the treatment under the influence of external factors and internal stresses. This preparatory operation is not very complex and is quite qualitatively performed on its own. Familiarization with the video in this article will allow a person with minimal skills to do everything on their own.

Plaster mesh is a versatile material. This tool is used in various areas of construction and repair. The effectiveness of individual types of plaster meshes is determined by the materials of their manufacture and design features.

Purpose

First of all, a plaster mesh is used for outdoor work. After all, it is the outer facing layer that lends itself to the most significant influences of environmental factors.

The use of the material contributes to the creation of a textured relief, which serves as the basis for a solid laying of the leveling plaster layer. The presence of a cellular structure makes it possible to effectively bind the particles of the solution. This makes it possible to form a solid monolithic surface.

Plaster mesh allows you to plaster the walls with high quality even for those masters who are engaged in such work for the first time. At the same time, the highest mortar setting rates are achieved as a result of reliable laying of the cladding on the textured mesh surface.

Areas of use

Currently, the plaster mesh is actively used:

  • as a reinforced layer when performing facing works;
  • when installing underfloor heating systems;
  • to strengthen reinforced concrete structures;
  • if necessary, create protection for mechanisms and machines;
  • in the construction of enclosures, barriers.

Material selection

The main criterion in the selection of plaster mesh is the required thickness of the facing layer. Based on this, you should stop at one of the following options:

  1. In cases where the plaster layer has a thickness of up to 20 mm, it is quite possible to reliably veneer the surfaces without the use of a plaster mesh.
  2. If the facing layer in the form of plaster is about 20-30 mm, in this case it is advisable to fasten the plaster stack of fiberglass. The main purpose of such products is to create a protective layer that protects surfaces from cracking.
  3. Laying plaster with a layer of more than 30 mm necessarily requires the use of a metal plaster mesh. This solution protects the facing layer from flaking.
  4. In the presence of the most uneven surfaces with recesses, where the differences in the facing layer are more than 50 mm, it is recommended to completely abandon the plastering.

Installation of metal reinforcing mesh

Metal plaster stack is the most common option when it is necessary to create the most reliable reinforcing surface. For laying such a grid, construction dowels, self-tapping screws and a specialized galvanized mounting tape will be required.

Before the plaster mesh for interior work is laid on the surface, preparation of the latter is required. The material is cut from rolls according to the desired dimensions. Next, the grid is degreased with acetone or a solvent.

It is recommended to fasten the plaster mesh starting from the ceiling. The upper side of the canvas is fixed with self-tapping screws along the entire length. Under each cap of the self-tapping screw, a piece of galvanized mounting tape is preliminarily placed. Widened washers can serve as a worthy alternative to the tape. However, this solution cannot be called profitable in terms of cost savings.

Holes are drilled in the surface of the wall, where plastic dowels are installed. Such fasteners are mounted in a checkerboard pattern over the entire area for reinforcement with a distance of about 40-50 cm. At the joints, the plaster mesh for interior work should be on the next canvas with an overlap of about 8-10 cm.

Laying fiberglass reinforcing mesh

The process of installing a fiberglass plaster mesh is an order of magnitude easier compared to fixing a metal reinforcing base. To securely fix the fiberglass plaster mesh on the desired surface, it is enough to use self-tapping screws. With the help of such fasteners, the upper edge of the mesh is first processed, and then the entire perimeter of the reinforcing material.

Usually, when installing a fiberglass plaster mesh, no additional fixation is required. When laying the plaster layer, the reinforcing material is fixed by the thickness of the cladding.

It is worth noting that it is most convenient to unwind the rolls of material and fix the canvases parallel to the floor plane along the wall. Installation of fiberglass plaster mesh is best to start from one of the upper corners. As in the case of laying a metal mesh, it is necessary to create a slight overlap of individual canvases.

As practice shows, the highest strength of the reinforcing coating is achieved when laying the mesh in solid sheets along the entire length of the treated surface. Therefore, when cutting the material, it is necessary to try to create a minimum number of small individual pieces.

For a better application of plaster, experienced craftsmen necessarily carry out preliminary priming, as well as, in certain cases, fixing the mesh under the plaster.

Grid under plaster as a reinforcing layer is used for:

  • increasing the mechanical strength of the facade;
  • avoid such defects as cracks.

Thus, the metal mesh acts as a "skeleton", the basis for covering the building.

Under the plaster layer of the facade, a mesh is used that meets the following requirements:

  • able to withstand temperature extremes;
  • resistant to alkalis;
  • does not corrode;
  • does not emit toxic substances;
  • light and easy to use.

Strengthening the facade of the building with a reinforcing layer can be done using:

  1. metal mesh for plaster - these meshes are most often covered with polymeric compounds that prevent interaction with the plaster material; metal meshes are used if the thickness of the plaster layer is 3 cm or more;
  2. fiberglass mesh - such meshes are thin, light and strengthen plaster less than 3 cm thick.

The technology of strengthening the facade with a mesh for plaster is quite simple:

  • metal meshes are attached to the wall using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws: the mesh is connected to the fasteners by means of a knitting wire;
  • it is more convenient to attach a fiberglass mesh using the "shooting" method, that is, using a construction stapler;
  • fastening the mesh under the plaster by the “shooting” method is also used on or porous walls, when the brackets can be firmly fixed at the base of the facade.

To strengthen the reinforcing mesh, electric and mechanical staplers are used. Shooting can be carried out both with staples and with all kinds of nails and pins.

You should not save on the choice of mesh, as well as the method of attaching it to the base, because the durability of the plaster layer will depend on this, as well as the absence of cracks on the walls that can spoil the entire appearance of the building.

Shooting the mesh under the plaster. Prices

Which one would you choose to work with the wall?

You need to look at the wall carefully. If even after the failure of large bumps on the wall, which is described in the article: We are trying to knock down all the big bumps on the wall, your wall is still very uneven and the drops reach more than 5 cm, then it is more reasonable to fix a metal mesh in such places (pits or depressions). If the wall is bumpy, but the bulges and concavities along the wall fluctuate within 2-3 cm, then it is enough to use a fiberglass mesh.

Now let's talk about fastening. The grid must be fixed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall. Mesh is usually sold in rolls. You unwind the roll and, like wallpaper, which you glue from one end to the other with paper sheets, here you are the opposite, horizontally from one edge of the wall to the other, fasten the first strip under the ceiling. Then lower, under the first piece, roll out the next one. For a room height of 3 meters, you just need to fix 3 such strips.

Fiberglass plaster mesh

Fastening fiberglass plaster mesh is much easier than metal. And that's why. It is enough to hang a fiberglass mesh on a few self-tapping screws, and it will simply hang down under its own weight. Naturally, the self-tapping screws must be screwed into the wall up to the very caps.

I specifically showed you a beacon here, so that you understand why you need to attach the mesh first, and then the beacon. The wall will be much stronger if the mesh that forms the basis of the future plaster is a single monolithic piece. Those. it is better to first roll out the mesh in a single piece along the wall, and then put the beacons, rather than put the beacons, and then cut the mesh in pieces from one beacon to another.

Why is it enough to hang the mesh under its own weight on self-tapping screws? Because when you dilute the plaster and throw it on the wall, the plaster slaps will seal the mesh directly to the concrete. Since the plaster sets quickly enough, the mesh will adhere securely to the concrete. And due to the fact that the grid is a single monolithic piece, the entire plane of the thrown plaster will gain sufficient strength.

Metal plaster mesh

Another thing is a metal plaster mesh. It is more capricious, and under its own weight it will not be possible to fix it. Among other things, the mesh cells are quite large and larger than the screw head. To attach it, I would like to recommend that you use mounting tape, which is ideal for this. And to make the tape easy to cut, you will need special scissors for metal.

We take scissors and cut the pieces of the mounting tape, and then fasten the metal plaster mesh with the help of such slices, as shown in the figure:

Here you will have to work hard and cut a lot of such slices so that the entire metal plaster mesh lies tightly against the wall and does not sag!

Important words!

You and I got carried away with the stucco mesh on how to set up beacons, but there is one more thing that must be done even before the stucco mesh is attached. Can't you guess? .