One of the most complex and responsible installation procedures is the installation of siding corners (both external and internal). And this complexity is connected not with the increased physical effort that must be expended, not with the intricacy of the tasks or the inability to understand the sequence of their implementation. Particular attention should be paid to the accuracy of measurements and the thoroughness of cutting parts.
Subtleties in the installation process
The corners are mounted immediately after the installation of the crate. Among all the elements of finished siding, they especially attract attention. If the slightest mistake is made during installation, it immediately catches the eye, so the installation of corners must be approached with all responsibility.
After reading this note, you will not make common mistakes and will be ready for any surprises that lie in wait for the installer.
When describing the process of cladding a building with siding, an unusual property of the material from which the panels and trim strips of siding are made is constantly mentioned. It has a fairly large coefficient of thermal expansion. This feature also affects the fastener rules, which must be strictly observed. It will not be superfluous to recall that after attaching the siding, the panels should not be clamped in order to be able to move from side to side.
How to take measurements correctly?
Let's start with a description of how to properly fix the outer corner profile. First of all, it is necessary to install cornice spotlights, or at least mark the place of their installation. Without this, you will not be able to accurately measure the distance that must be left between the edge of the corner profile and the lower plane of the eaves.
You also need to decide on the lower edge of the corner of the building. Options when there is a protruding base or installed structures will be described below. Now let's consider the procedure for facing external corners with a flat or sinking plinth.
The correct measurement of the height of the corner is done as follows: the distance between the cornice and the lower plane of the starting bar is measured and 3 mm is added. The profile is attached to the corner close to the soffit and lowered by 3 mm, leaving a gap for thermal expansion.
Accordingly, the lower edge of the corner will fall below the starting bar by 6 mm. This will be enough so that in frosty weather, during compression, the underside of the fasteners would not be exposed, which greatly spoils the appearance of the building. For the same purpose, the perforated strips of the corner profiles are cut from the edges by 5-6 mm so that they are not visible when the material expands.
What materials for installing siding corners to choose?
Fasteners choose at your discretion. Self-tapping screws, nails and stapler staples are common among installers. The most unreliable fastening is staples.
They are used exclusively with a wooden crate, and in the event of strong gusts of wind, they can simply be pulled out and warp the siding. If there is no stock of material, repairs can turn into a problem. And the strength of the connection loses strength over time. Nails hold firmly and for a long time. But, as we remember, it is impossible to nail too tightly, but it is necessary to leave a gap between the nail head and the perforated bar.
Agree, it is difficult to make a gap of a millimeter with a hammer. Based on this, the optimal fastener is a self-tapping screw with a press washer. Installation is done quickly and without additional devices. First, the screw is tightened with a certain force set on the screwdriver, and then unscrewed by one turn. After a few screws, this method becomes a habit.
To fix the profile start from the top of the outer or inner corner. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the upper part of the uppermost perforated holes.
Then you should carefully check the correctness of the angle setting: whether the part hangs evenly along the entire length, whether the gaps for thermal changes are accurately maintained, including whether the starting strips fit the perforation at a distance of less than 6 mm.
If everything is done correctly, you can fasten the entire corner by screwing in the screws exactly in the center of the perforations at a distance of no more than 40 cm from each other.
In cases where the length of the vinyl profile is less than the height of the corner of the building, the installation is made in two parts using the "overlap" method. Be sure to place the upper part above the lower one so that moisture and dust do not get inside. The overlap is at least 20 mm. The total length of the two parts must correspond to the distance between the cornice and the lower plane of the starting bar, plus 3 mm (compression-expansion gap) and plus 20 mm overlap.
The easiest way to prepare the connection is to perform the operation on a flat horizontal surface. Lay the two parts of the corner as if installing with an overlap of 20 mm, mark marks on the upper part at a distance of 6 mm from the edge of the perforation of the lower.
Then cut the strips with mounting holes according to the marks, leaving only the front side of the profile. Further, according to all the rules, we first install the lower part, and then the upper one. It is advisable to keep the dimensions of additional parts the same when installing all corners, including internal ones.
Installation, docking and connection of profiles
There are several more ways to connect vertical profiles. Can be joined with a patch. The lower and upper parts of the corner are set according to all the rules in the same plane "butt".
The front part is pre-cut out of the rest of the corner profile and glued to the bottom part from the inside. This method makes the corner of the house look more beautiful, but loses from an engineering point of view - moisture can get inside the profile.
The third option differs from the previous one in that the perforated strips of the insert do not cut off completely, but leave the central part and fasten in the same way as the entire corner.
Only the edges of the planks are trimmed at the rate of 20 mm overlap and 6 mm expansion gap. As a variety, it can be installed using the herringbone method, although this is unlikely to add density to the structure.
If you are dealing with a protruding plinth or installing siding in the area of the veranda, where the corner profile rests on the floor, you need to shorten the vinyl corner by 6 mm.
In some cases, it becomes necessary to cover the edges of the outer corner from above and below.
Such a possibility exists. To close the bottom corner, a J-rail is usually used. A part is cut out of it, two times the width of the outer plane of the outer corner.
To bend the resulting segment at a right angle, an angle of 90 degrees is cut off in the center from the inside, and the outer side is shortened by 2.2 cm on both sides. The mounting plate is not touched. Bending the resulting part, attach it to the outer corner of the crate.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account thermal expansion and leave a gap between the lower edge of the corner profile and the bottom of the resulting cover.
To cover the upper edge, you can use the same part as for the lower edge, or you can make it from trimming an angled profile. Make incisions on one side and bend them inward.
It is desirable to fix the edges at the same time.
If you want to save money, you can offer a budget option. Instead of an expensive outer corner, it is possible to fit two J-profiles. Such a replacement looks no worse than a whole one, but it costs an order of magnitude cheaper.
Installation of siding corners is quite an important and crucial moment in the decoration of the room. After all, there can be many corners, these are windows and doors. And they can be with slopes and without.
How corner siding is attached, we will consider in this article with examples. Corners for siding and other additional elements are in large quantities in the networks retail but they must be chosen correctly. After watching the video in this article, you can see everything clearly and quickly understand the rules for doing this work.
Rules for doing work
The outer corner for siding is lined with additional elements. It is necessary to calculate them immediately and only after that purchase.
Attention: It is necessary to pay special attention to the length of the surfaces, the amount of waste will also depend on this, and they will be mandatory.
Finishing the corners of the house with siding can be done in several ways:
- External corner for siding;
- Internal corner for siding;
- Corners for siding with slopes;
- Corners for siding with a radius.
Now let's look at each type of finish separately.
Exterior siding trim
How to fix outer corner for siding, we will analyze in detail. The inner corner for siding is done in a slightly different way, but now let's look at the option of making an outer corner.
So:
- First you need to adjust the length of all elements. If there is a need, then the extra parts are removed by the grinder, given the small reserve for thermal expansion between the top point and the cornice.
- Work should begin at the top point (in the situation where the height of the walls is more than three meters, then the fasteners are made at the bottom).
- The profile for the corner is applied to the wall with the expectation that its location will be four to five millimeters lower than the starting base and 0.6 centimeters below the upper edge of the wall.
- The element is first attached at the top to the bars of the previously installed crate (see). As fasteners, you can resort to self-tapping screws with an aluminum anti-corrosion coating. They are screwed into the first hole at the top on both sides of the corner. The profile will hang on hardware. The vertical must be checked with a plumb bob.
- After that, we fix it at the bottom point.
- If there are no irregularities, you can proceed to fixing the corner strip along the entire height. It is fastened loose enough to be able to "move", that is, to compensate for the expansion of the material of the panels due to temperature changes. This can be achieved if the screws are not fully tightened. It is better to leave a margin of one millimeter on the thread, and not to do it back to back. The hardware is screwed into the middle of the oblong perforation, observing a twenty-centimeter step between them.
- If the height of the solution is greater than the length of the vinyl corner profile and it is necessary to increase the strip, they resort to an additional one, overlapping them. In this case, the total length of these elements will be greater than the original height. It is necessary to improve the upper corner of the profile, which has been lengthened. Cut off 0.25 cm strips from the sides to the middle of the axis. The upper corner is superimposed on the lower one with a very small margin. As a result, there should not be a tight connection between the two connected elements, because 0.05 cm is required for compensatory expansion. It is important to ensure that all corner elements on the facade of the building are fixed at the same level.
- In the event that it becomes necessary to hide the upper or lower end of the corner, you can make so-called covers. For these purposes, fragments of J-slats are used. In the workpiece, or rather in the center, cut a right angle and cut off the edges. Finished covers are bent along the central axis and screwed to the outer corner of the building. Fixation is first carried out at the lowest and highest points. After that, elements are inserted into them and nailed.
- Such fastening is not the only method of fixation. Profile extension can be done through overlays. To do this, a pair of connected elements, which are located in the same plane, do not contact the edges, but are laid on a part cut from the same profile. It is glued to the bottom bar.
- But there is another order construction works. There are such finishing methods in which the corner parts of the facade look more reliable, as well as aesthetic. In this case, it is important to purchase only certified quality material.
How to sheathe a window
Installation of siding may vary depending on the depth of planting windows:
- Arched windows.
- Depth up to twenty centimeters or more;
- The window is flush with the wall plane.
This division is connected with the use of various standard elements. Now manufacturers offer several executive options. Everything will depend on the linear size of the profile.
- Before you start, it is important to create a crate. It is better to take a metal profile as building elements, because wood does not have such resistance to external aggressive factors and durability indicators.
- If, nevertheless, you have chosen a wooden slat for the frame, then before work you need to process them with special compounds. They will increase resistance to moisture, biological and chemical resistance, fire resistance and strength of the material.
Attention: The frame is mounted at a ninety-degree angle, and it does not matter where the slopes of the window opening are directed.
Sloped window trim
To perform this work, there is a special corner for siding. Therefore, you must first remove all sizes and purchase it. The price of this element is not high, but with its help it will be much easier to complete all the work.
- If the planting depth of doors or windows is up to twenty cm, then standard type J strips are usually used for sheathing. Their width reaches twenty-two centimeters. Considering the overlaps of the elements of the entire structure, it is possible to block openings up to 20 centimeters with this method. A finishing bar is placed on the plane of the window frames and a profile is inserted into its groove.
- It is also possible to replace the near-window strip with a corner fastening system, cutting strips of siding and a universal strip, which must be laid in the grooves strictly horizontally, and the outer edge is covered with an overlay. This method can also be used when the window seating depth exceeds the dimensions of the J-chamfer.
- Sets the profile and outer corner, the spaces formed between them are filled with cut siding panels.
Window framing without slopes
If the door opening coincides with the plane of the wall, then standard elements such as a platband can be used during the cladding of the building.
- They can be varied and vary in shape and width: wide (about six centimeters) and narrow (four). To frame the arched opening, it is customary to resort to a flexible platband.
- At the same time, all elements can be matched by color with siding (see) or vice versa, highlight the opening by taking platbands that have a different color scheme.
- When siding finishing, the following sequence is observed: first, we install the casing and fill all the gaps with siding.
arched windows
For sheathing such windows, a flexible standard profile is used, but it is quite expensive.
- For this reason, most prefer to use a rigid J-profile, whose base is cut to the desired pitch.
- It is chosen depending on the radius of curvature. The smaller the turning radius, the more often trimming is carried out.
Attention: If the profile is flexible, then be careful during work, as the profile may simply crack at the rounding point. Even if the inflection can be leveled, then in its place, for sure, there will be a trace.
We frame windows with a slope of more than twenty centimeters
When processing window openings, whose recess is more than 20 cm, they resort to the help of external corners, siding panels and profiles, which are cut to specific sizes.
- At the very beginning of finishing work, you need to install a profile, as well as an outer corner. After that, we lay the pre-prepared siding panels in the gap between them.
- For finishing slopes (see), you can use not only siding, but also soffit. It is advisable, of course, to use a soffit for these works, because the panel itself has a shape that will drain water, and even water. appearance much more attractive.
Attention: Particular attention should be paid to the ways of joining and trimming the corners of the door or window frame. The corners must be connected in such a way that there are no gaps and gaps, since water is able to get under the finishing materials through them.
- A straight cut can also be done, but cutting at a forty-five degree slope will look more presentable and have more functionality.
- It must be borne in mind that the use of metal fittings allows you to close large slopes. This is due to the fact that it can be ordered in sizes to own house. If you have slopes of twenty-five centimeters, then it will be made and a single piece will be attached around the window, and not an assembled “miracle” from separate pieces. Another undoubted advantage of metal fittings is that when decorating the facade, it looks much more profitable than plastic.
The instruction will help you to do everything correctly and guided by it, you will be able to cope with the intended work without any problems and will be satisfied with the result. Before starting the work, it is worth examining and lifting everything, the photo will help you with this.
Starting profile: set correctly
Siding installation consists of several stages and includes the installation of many components, including starting and corner profiles, moldings and much more. This process occurs along the line of walls, windows and roofs.
Installation of deck siding consists of several key points:
- Choice of technology;
- Setting the start profile;
- Installation of external and internal corners;
- Facing corners other than rectangular shape.
How to choose the right technology?
First, determine the type of base (Fig. 15). It can be sunken, protruding and even. The first - the plinth "sinks" in the wall, which slightly hangs over it. The second - the wall is narrower, the third - they have the same width. The cladding of the facade with an even and sinking base is performed using the same technology, with a protruding one, it is somewhat different.
Sometimes the base can change its appearance, turning from a protruding to a sinking one. Such a transformation is possible due to the thickness of the crate. If you kept the protruding plinth, then you need to install a vinyl drip under the start panel. In this case, the plinth can be left intact and closed.
Rice. 15. Types of socles: a - sinking; b - even; c - protruding (lined with a crate with a wall); g - protruding with a reflux on top of the crate; 1 - wall; 2 - crate; 3 - base; 4 - vinyl outflow Decke; 5 - cement screed
Docke siding start profiles are used for more than just the underside of a building wall. Starting planks successfully close the gable of the roof, which is especially important with an attic sheathed with siding and open facades. They are excellent for installation on roof gables and at the beginning of subsequent floors, if a design project or engineering needs to visually separate the skin. Installation is carried out along the bottom line of the wall.
Siding installation technologies: we create high-quality cladding
For high-quality finishing of the facade of the house with vinyl siding, it is necessary to take into account several important points: one can only dream of a flawlessly even plinth, strict adherence to technology will help create a neat and durable cladding, it is necessary to start installation by determining the bottom point of the wall.
To help you - a special water level, which will help you to complete this stage as efficiently as possible (Fig. 16).
- Where the water takes on a horizontal position, mark accordingly. Such labels must be placed on each corner.
- Measure the distance between each mark and the top of the base. Where the bottom point of the wall is, there will be maximum numbers. And it is from this place that we begin the installation of the starting bar.
64 mm - Deck siding profile height. Measure the same amount from the bottom point up and drive in the nail - not completely. Now you will again need a water level - to combine the water level in one of the tubes with a nail. We repeat all these actions with each corner, mark the horizon with a nail and navigate along the second glass tube. The final point will be the one from which you started the process. Obviously, a secondary bypass will not be needed - if you remember, we have already marked the horizon with a mark. It remains to measure the distance from the mark, which indicates the top of the starting profile, to the horizon using a tape measure. And transfer the obtained values to all corners of the structure. Count down from the horizon line.
Rice. 16. Installation of the starting profile (dimensions in mm): a - beating the horizon; b - installation of starting strips; 1 - wall; 2 - crate; 3 - water level; 4 - nail; 5 - lace; 6 - starting strip
Stroymet specialists draw your attention! If the base has a certain design, then the siding can be lowered below the upper edge. And accordingly change the indent distance to a smaller one. For example, 50 mm instead of the existing sixty-four. In this case, the plinth will be slightly covered with siding - how much, you choose, the main thing is that half the height of the starting bar is not exceeded (Fig. 17).
So, the corner points are fixed, the upper boundaries of the starting profile are indicated, now we must create a visible border of the starting bar. To do this, we use a cord that we stretch between the nails. To visually mark the border, it is better to rub the cord with something colored - it can be chalk or coal. Now, standing in the middle of the wall, pull the cord towards you and release it sharply. A hard hit against a wall will leave a colored line that marks the top boundary. "Recapture the horizon" is necessary on each wall, after which the cord can be removed.
Rice. 17. Covering the plinth
Now you need to inspect the crate. Perhaps some corners turned out to be too turned up - this happens if the base was far from the horizontal. In this case, the length of the crate for fastening the profile will be clearly not enough. Nail additional slats to get the desired length.
Getting started with direct installation
The shelf width of the vertical corner profile is 75 mm, for the J-profile it is smaller, only 46 mm. We add a few millimeters (from one to five) to the temperature gap and measure the horizontal distances. Next, set aside the size of the corner profile and proceed to the installation work. By the way, the color scheme of the profile is completely unimportant, because later the cladding will hide it. The width of the corner vertical elements is measured from the corner, and one expansion gap should be added here. Align the selected colored line (the one that we drew with a cord) with the upper edge and carefully attach it to the crate (Fig. 16b). This can be done with screws or nails.
The next step in installing Docke siding is the location of the fasteners. Do not forget to check how the panel behaves when moving - it should be free, without any hooks. Then fix the profile. The installation of the second starting profile is carried out in the same way as the first. Between the profiles it is necessary to maintain a distance of 2 mm to 1 centimeter based on two values of the temperature gap. Similarly, we install all panels around the perimeter of the house, periodically controlling the horizontal position using the building level.
Important! As you install the launch panels, so will the siding. On perfectly flat planks, you will get the perfect siding surface, if there is a curvature somewhere, the rest of the cladding will repeat the mistake.
Protruding plinth: the specifics of siding installation technology
The first thing to do is to protect the base from aggressive influences. environment in particular against moisture and dampness. For these purposes, a vinyl tide is used, mounted between the starting profile and the plinth. At Docke, the ebb has a width of 10 cm, with it you can hide any plinth.
A plinth made of concrete, brick or stone must be leveled, made of wood - treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant - so you will extend its service life.
The installation technology is not too different from that described above - you also need to find the lowest point of the wall surface, just measure 60 mm at the top, beat off the horizon with a cord, going around the entire house around the perimeter (Fig. 18).
But this installation begins with the installation of ebbs - from the corner. First, we cut off 50 cm from a solid ebb, mark it (according to the model in the figure), cut it and carefully fold it into a hard right angle. Next, the upper part of the bar must be carefully aligned with the line that we drew with the cord, and we mount the corner on the wall. We set the next ebb with an overlap at 25 mm of the working surface, cut the nail strips of 14-18 millimeters. Half of the overlap is 12.5 mm, here we add additional millimeters (no more than 5) to the temperature gaps and so we ensure the expansion of the profile.
Rice. 18. Installation of the starting profile over the ebbs: a - general form; b - the device of the outer corner from the ebb; in - the same thing, the corner of the inner; 1 - outer corner of the ebb; 2 - low tide; 3 - starting bar
The difference in the installation of the inner corner from the outer one is in the features of the bend, which is made along the nail strip.
We fix the ebb in the center of the nail hole, observing the step frequency in the range of 20-45 cm, the hat should protrude by about a millimeter. Another difference between the technology is the need to once again take out the horizon with a colored cord. This time, you will have to observe a 40 mm indent from the top of the bar. It is necessary to mount the starting strips above the low tide to the horizon line and fasten it in the same way as in the technology for the sinking base.
Features of installing an external corner
Installing the outer corner of the siding in a house with a flat or sinking plinth has its own characteristics. First you need to determine the length of the profile. The correct length is the height of the corner, to which 3 mm is added. The next step is to fasten the profile to the outer corner with self-tapping screws or nails. Do not forget to step back from the roof eaves by 3 mm. When the structure hangs on two nails, measure the distances - from the roof eaves it should be 3 mm, from the starting profile - a maximum of 6 mm lower. After you check the verticality of the corner profile, you can finish the fasteners, keeping the step between the holes 20-40 cm (Fig. 19a). Attach too tightly to nothing.
Rice. 19. Installation of the outer corner profile: a - general view; b - overlapping corner profiles; 1 - outer corner profile; 2 - top profile; 3 - lower profile
The company "Stroymet" draws your attention! Before starting installation work, cut the nail strips in the lower part of the corner profile - approximately 4 - 6 mm, then when changing temperature regime they will be invisible.
But the length of the vinyl profile is not always sufficient for the height of the corner, sometimes you have to join two elements into one. This should be done at the same height, above the lower profile is the upper one - overlapped. To cut the required size of the plank, use metal scissors. You need to cut off in the upper corner profile, leave two flat strips from which the corner will form.
Installation begins with the installation of the lower corner profile, then the upper one is mounted. This is how we build a node that is absolutely closed from the aggressive effects of natural phenomena (Fig. 19b). Particular attention should be paid to the height of the part to be cut off - it can be greater than the temperature gap or completely correspond to it. In turn, the size of the gap ranges from 2 to 9 mm, while the overlap of the panels will be about 2.5 cm.
Does installing Docke siding corner require the use of additional elements? Installation rules are the same - up to three millimeters top gap, up to six millimeters outlet from the lower edge of the starting bar.
Are you planning to finish the facade with a protruding plinth? Or are there structures in the architecture of the house that become a kind of barrier? A convenient length of the corner profile is a maximum of 0.5 cm higher, you need to cut it along the bottom.
In the same way as the outer corner, the inner corner is set. See the picture for details (Fig. 20).
Non-standard corners: how to make a cladding?
A variety of modern architectural solutions often implies the presence of an original bay window shape, non-standard angles, and exclusive elements. And sometimes the owners wonder - is it possible to complete their cladding? Of course, with the usual vinyl siding deck. The external corner profile is “pulled” onto the facade during installation, opening or narrowing it as necessary (Fig. 21).
Rice. 20. Installation of internal corner profiles: a - from one corner profile; b - joining along the length of the internal corner profiles; 1 - internal corner profile; 2 - ordinary siding panel; 3 - J-profile; 4 - top profile; 5 - bottom corner profile
The main condition for successful installation is the correct installation of fasteners. Only in this case it is possible to stretch the vinyl profile at an angle (external and internal) and vertically. All other installation steps are the same as before.
Rice. 21. Installation of corner profiles on non-rectangular corners
The sheathing is the main support when slabs are installed under the siding. There are several types of framework. And no matter which type is chosen, the technology is produced according to the same rules. Finishing plates can be fixed without an auxiliary structure, then the house will lose its original appearance.
Description
There are various differences and irregularities on the surface of the wall, and with the help of the frame it is possible to level the surface. In this case, the house will not lose its operational characteristics, and the finishing plates will not be deformed. In addition, additional opportunities for thermal insulation of the facade and the arrangement of hydro and vapor barriers will only be added.
The frame, built under the finishing slabs, allows the wall surface to "breathe". That is, to provide excellent ventilation of the facade, and, therefore, reliably protect against fungal diseases, mold, moisture and condensation.
Functions
The main functions of the crate are:
- Support for fixing siding boards.
- Leveling the surface of the wall.
- The basis for facing sheets of siding.
- Provides a gap between the insulation, the surface of the house and the facing plate.
- The facade of the house is ventilated.
- Normalizes the humidity regime in the house.
Types of crates
Only two types of crates are used, this is due to the use of different materials: wood and metal.
Wooden
The use of wooden blocks makes construction more economical. But there is a significant drawback here, the deformation of the material from natural phenomena (snow, rain). If the timber used has a moisture index of 12-15%, this is considered normal. But when this figure is above the norm, you can wait negative consequences. First, there will be a curvature of the material. Secondly, the integrity of the crate and its appearance are violated.
Low humidity levels can be corrected before installation. Within one month, the material should be kept in its natural state, it will dry, and only then proceed with its installation.
The appearance of a wooden profile is a beam, which has a section of 0.5x0.5 cm. In order to prevent damage to wood, a special antiseptic impregnation is applied to the bars. And even with such protection, the timber cannot be used for battens in rainy weather.
metal
Profiles are used here, the material of which is galvanized iron with a cross section of 0.6x0.27 cm. Analogues of such profiles can be used for various surfaces.
There are profiles of another section. For example, 0.5 x 0.5 and 0.4 x 0.4 cm, but they are not suitable for fastening siding. The reason lies in the lack of rigidity of the material. They do not flang the edge of the canvas.
For fixing metal profiles, suspensions are used, in the form of thin galvanized sheets. They have a U-shape, and fasteners are made to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. From opposite ends of the surface, the fastening of two canvases begins, which act as guides.
To check the accuracy of fasteners, it is worth using a construction or laser corner. After the measurements are made, it is necessary to stretch the fishing line between the guide canvases. Additional slats will be installed on it.
Sheathing for basement siding
The choice, for example, of the panels fell on vinyl imitating wood, brick or stone with a size of 50 x 120 cm. We choose a metal frame, since the basement surface is close to the ground and is exposed to ground and melt water, which is not desirable for wooden profiles.
In the region with warm winters you can mount the first guide directly above the ground. In regions where freezing of the earth is possible, it should be located 15 cm above the soil level.
If we will clad the entire facade, the guides should be placed vertically at a distance of 90 cm, in the case of cladding only from below, the horizontal frame at a distance of 45 cm will be the best solution.
Installation, as always, we will start with two guides, which we place on opposite walls. Next, a fishing line is pulled between them, along which intermediate bars will be located.
We drill holes for hangers or brackets with a perforator, here we will attach the frame bars. If we choose a metal frame, we use brackets, because of their stability.
Having decided to make additional thermal insulation, before installing the profile, we will lay the insulating material directly on the brackets. We lay the windproof membrane on top and continue to fasten the main rails.
Now we measure the plane of the fixed corners with the building level and proceed to.
What materials and tools are needed
- A hammer.
- Screwdriver.
- Level.
- Roulette.
- Accessories.
- Fasteners.
Lathing installation technology
We use ventilated runs or a regular one to equip the frame. The use of the first material allows you to securely fix the sheets and get good ventilation of the space under the siding. To align the frame, we use special brackets; you can also use U-shaped profile parts.
We install the details of the crate at a certain distance. And it depends on the quality of the walls and on the features of the house. If we make metal elements of the frame, we choose a step of 30-40 cm.
Now, if we lay the siding horizontally, then we lay the battens vertically or vice versa. We make a solid frame near the door and window openings.
With the brick form of the main masonry, the step should be calculated so that the mount does not have to be driven into the mortar.
The installation technology is as follows:
- Preparatory work.
- Markup.
- Lathing installation.
A detailed step-by-step guide for the reader to do the work themselves
- At the initial stage, we prepare the walls, for any type of frame (wooden or metal). To do this, we dismantle the platbands from doors and windows and all the details that protrude beyond the plane of the building. We clean the house from all kinds of pollution. Let's say the house is sheathed with clapboard made of wood, do not forget to inspect the reliability of fastening the boards. If there are loose boards, we fix them with self-tapping screws. Next, we treat the walls with an antifungal agent, this will prevent the formation of mold under the siding.
- The next step is markup. The distance is chosen from the weight of the sheets. If the panels are heavy, it is worth taking a step less between profiles or structural bars. Sometimes the distance between the bars is reduced due to the region with strong winds. And here we must decide how the panel will be directed in order to choose a horizontal or vertical arrangement of the rails.
- The final step is to mount the wooden frame under the siding. This option will be a little cheaper than using metal profiles and the easiest to mount. We dry the bars thoroughly, we do the treatment with an antiseptic, and only then we use them for work. We prepare the length of the beam the same length as the wall. If the length is not enough, you can join two, but this is not desirable.
- We start with the installation of brackets. We put the bars on top and make the fastening with self-tapping screws. The mounting option can be directly on the wall if insulation is not provided. Lathing, if required, by leveling with plastic wedges. The structure is ready.
How to make a corner of the crate for siding
We fasten the corner details of the crate by 0.6 cm, retreating from the cornice and by the same amount from the starting strip.
We fix the inner corners of the house with an inner corner or J-profile.
Installation of siding on the crate
- When all profiles are ready, we begin. We begin to attach the first sheet to the starting profile from the bottom up. And we move from left to right from the corner. The corner of the first sheet is set at 0.2 cm below the edge of the starting profile. We advance the first sheet all the way to the left, that is, to the outer corner.
- We apply sealant to the edge and join with the corner. We fasten the parts with screws or nails through the substrate and maintain a right angle. We start the next sheet in the starting profile and press it to the initial sheet and so on all subsequent rows. Let's say the siding is chosen for brick or under masonry, then we shift each row by 15 cm, in relation to the previous one. That is, we give it a natural look.
- We smoothly lower the sheet down, without trying to push it, then the fastening will turn out to be reliable. There are special posts, or mounting pins, that serve as protection against deformation, but not for fixing to the wall. For design freedom, we install five fasteners on one sheet.
- Fasteners should enter the wall by 15 cm for reliability. And more importantly, we prepare holes in the sheet itself for fasteners, they should be slightly larger in diameter than the fasteners used.
- A typical mistake when installing wooden bars in a crate is to use them not dried. Over time, they will lead. Therefore, let it take time, they must be dried.
- The distance between the screws and nails, for reliable fastening, should be 35 cm, up to a maximum of 60 cm and a length of at least 3 cm.
- The overlap between the panels should be 25 mm to prevent the ingress of snow, rain, dirt.
- It is not worth fixing the sheets through the surface, as this leads to bending of the sheets.
- Do not forget to leave a gap between the insulation and the siding of 30 mm, this protects against condensation.
For an unprepared person, the variety of outdoor materials available on the market today can cause some confusion.
Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for house cladding. The only issue is the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.
If there is no experience in finishing work, siding becomes the best solution, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishes:
- There is no need for "wet" work (plastering, etc.).
- Restrictions on weather or temperature conditions are set by the employee according to his own feelings.
- To install the material does not require any special skills, ease of installation provides the possibility of self-plating at home.
- The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.
This article is step by step instructions for installation for teapots.
Siding is a sheathing material used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the shape of oblong narrow strips with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden construction (most often) or, less often, masonry.
Strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to a support on one side and for connecting to each other - on the other. The design allows you to collect canvases of any size from them.
Siding is assembled on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are light in weight, so it is easy to lift and carry them. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels, an assistant is needed.
The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.
The first samples were wooden, today there are different types material:
- (PVC, acrylic, etc.)
The most common plastic (PVC) and metal types siding with the best performance or the most successful combination of quality and price.
In addition, there are many profile options:
- Timberblock.
- etc.
Mounting direction:
- Horizontal.
- siding.
Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.
Developers are constantly adding the lineup, so there can be no exhaustive list, the list always remains open.
Siding kit
In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (additions) are produced that serve to decorate the joints of different canvases at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or door openings, etc.
to standard types can be attributed:
- Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
- H-profile.
- J-bar.
- Starting bar.
- Finish plank.
- Platband.
- Soffit.
- Circumferential profile.
All additional elements are fully consistent with the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.
Attention! Sometimes, as a decoration, extensions of a different, contrasting color are used, which gives the sheathing an elegant and original look.
The choice of crates - which is better, wood or metal?
Lathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as a support for them. As a material for the crate, it is customary to use wooden bars or metal guides for drywall.
Disputes about that have been heard from the very first days of using the skin. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and need to be insulated.
At the same time, wooden parts there is a common disease - they are subject to warping, deformation during shrinkage and decay. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanizing.
Another problem with wooden bars is curvature. Choosing a perfectly straight piece from a pack of timber is a difficult task, since wood is highly susceptible to warping or screwing. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.
Thus, a metal profile seems to be a better option for creating a crate, but the cavity formed by it should be taken into account and filled in parallel with the installation of insulation.
Installation of the selected crate
Installation of the crate begins with the installation of extreme strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall in the corners, the position is checked by a plumb line. Then a cord (at least two) is pulled between the extreme strips, which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the crate and ensure the plane.
Intermediate strips are installed with a step that allows you to tightly lay insulation boards between them. To ensure a plane, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden crates) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.
After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that provides optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).
The counter grill performs an additional function of providing a ventilation gap between the skin and the wall cake, which ensures the removal of steam.
NOTE!
If it is not planned to install an external insulation, then the carrier layer of the crate is immediately mounted (perpendicular to the siding panels).
Warming and waterproofing
During the installation of the crate, external wall insulation can be performed. As a heater, a material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected.. This moment is very important, otherwise water (condensate) will accumulate on the border of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.
Therefore, the most preferred insulation will be slab mineral wool, which freely passes water vapor. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a layer of hydroprotection should be installed.. This is done at the stage of finishing the installation of the first layer of the crate and insulation.
A layer of a waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents the ingress of moisture from the outside. The counter-lattice is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.
Installation of the starting bar (J profiles)
The starting bar is the support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the intended bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting bar is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate.
CAREFULLY!
Self-tapping screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the bar to move freely. The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the elongated holes, so that during temperature shifts the part can move and compensate for dimensional changes without deformation of the skin plane. This rule applies to all siding elements.
The next bar is not fastened closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for thermal expansion.
How is siding installed?
The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting bar, snapped into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the sheathing "grows" from the bottom up (or sideways if a vertical siding type is chosen).
Attention! In some cases, top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems have been found.
Installation of internal corner strips
The installation of the corners is carried out before the installation of the main panels, immediately after fixing the starting bar. The inner corner profile is fastened with the lower edge at the level of the starting bar, the density of the self-tapping screws is recommended to be 25-30 cm.
If the starting bar prevents the profile from being positioned in the right place, the nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus an expansion gap.
If necessary, increase the corner strip, cut off the top nail strips by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water flow. The overlap is not more than 25 mm, so that the temperature gap is observed.
You can make a corner connection using a J-strip, which is cheaper than a corner one. This can be done with one plank, when it is tightly adjacent to the outer edge of the row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed in it.
The second option is to use two planks on each side of the corner, while there is a danger of water penetrating into the gap between the planks, since the absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.
Installation of external corner strips
External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the element's reverse geometry. The same overlapping technique, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located at the corners close to each other.
For outside corners, a simpler design is possible - with a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the junction of the planes is the most accurate, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option is the most preferable, because it is simpler and for unprepared people, this option seems to be optimal.
How to lengthen siding strips
If it is necessary to end-join the panels, an H-profile or a simple overlap joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm, for its implementation it is necessary to cut off the nail strip from the top and part of the lock from the bottom from one panel to the length of the overlap and plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. Overlapping is best done at random - in each row of panels in different places, so as not to weaken the entire canvas.
H-profile installation
The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of the H-profile makes the longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetic, allows you to immediately cut the required number of panels to the length for a given section.
Installation of ordinary siding panels
It starts immediately after the installation of the starting strip and the corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the desired length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.
The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and fastened along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.
The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free play. The next panel is attached in the same way. By itself, the process of creating a plane is simple and does not require special knowledge, except for those indicated.
Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are found.
Loose connections or other causes may interfere with correct position panels, causing slight distortion. If you do not make constant monitoring, then by the end of the installation, the changes may become noticeable and the whole work will be spoiled. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.
How to siding around windows and doorways
They are made in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of planting the block in the plane of the wall.
For the design of openings that are in the same plane with the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of the siding, so the installation of the trim is done before installing the main panels.
If the openings have a depth of up to 20 cm, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is carried out on top of the finished panels, on the window frame around the perimeter it is necessary to fix the finishing bar.
At large depths of openings, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut off taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and recruited according to the usual principle. A universal bar is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted on the outer junction of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install extensions before mounting the main panels.
To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install a crate on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of the slope, the lathing of the openings is set perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is provided by the position of the finishing or universal strips.
Siding finish strip
The finishing bar forms the upper (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fastened strictly horizontally at the desired height, the nail plank on the last panel is cut off.
The panel with a cut edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing bar and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the size of the required gap is observed, the lock securely fixes the panel in the plane of the web.
NOTE!
For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an exact calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment sheathing is planned.
Gable siding installation
Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main canvas. It will require a fairly accurate trim in length and at an angle.
A feature of the design is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with trimming panels at an angle, at which errors are possible, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start the installation from the back sides of the house, so that before moving to the front side there is some experience.
Useful video
In this video you will learn how to install siding:
Conclusion
Do-it-yourself siding installation is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is the looseness of fastening parts and compliance with temperature gaps, all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should abandon the haste and act deliberately, then the result will become the pride of the owner of the house.
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