Nude photography has a long history as a provocative art form. The human body is a beautiful creation in itself, whose intricate shapes, smooth contours and unique features make it a stunning photographic subject. However, the photographer needs to be careful about how, while maintaining a professional approach to business, to get the intended aesthetic presentation on their shots. Always plan ahead for your photo shoot, use a wide variety of photography techniques to capture the beauty of your attracted model, and make sure she feels comfortable at every step of the process.

Steps

Part 1

Training

    Find a model ready to go nude. Your first priority is to find someone who will agree to nude photography. Try to communicate with women who are fond of modeling and are interested in photography as an art. If you do not have such contacts, you may be able to hire a model through a professional modeling agency. Before using the services of such agencies, make sure that you are able to pay for them.

    Have an idea of ​​what you want to achieve. Before you light up the idea to start photographing as soon as possible, you need to clearly mentally imagine your idea and how to implement it. Consider what kinds of thematic elements you can use, as well as consider technical considerations, including possible camera angles, ideas for lighting, and choice of shots. The worst thing you can do is start nude photography without preparation. There must be an invisible atmosphere of trust between the fashion model and the photographer, and if a girl has to undress in front of an unprepared amateur photographer who does not even have any idea in her head, it will not be easy for her.

    Find a suitable location for photography. Pay attention to eye-catching places that can be good for nude shots. The visual intrigue of the chosen location should do justice to the beauty of your model. Natural landscapes, including fields, forests, and bodies of water, are popular choices as they complement the nature of the naked body. However, as a background, you can also choose industrial sites, urban buildings and any other interesting places.

    • Avoid public areas and places where you will be watched or disturbed.
    • If you need permission to take photos in a particular location, please arrange all formalities before you start shooting.
  1. Set a time and place for a pre-meeting. Make an appointment with the model to discuss the details of the shoot with her. Invite her out for lunch, coffee, or visit your studio for a friendly conversation. Try to break the ice between you before you get to work. When it's time to uncover your camera, you'll already be familiar enough to be able to communicate with each other more comfortably.

    • Be sure to outline your concept so that the model has an idea of ​​what to expect. Don't be afraid to ask the model about her attitude towards what you have in mind.
    • Use this time to assess the model's comfort level with regard to the idea of ​​future photo shoots. Go to the main one and initiate a dialogue with questions: "Would you mind if ...? How would you feel about ...?"
    • A preliminary meeting is not a date. Do your best to help the model relax, but maintain a proper professional attitude towards her.

Part 2

Photography
  1. Pay special attention to setting the lighting. Distribute the light sources so that they illuminate and accentuate the natural forms of the model. If you're shooting in the field, it could be the soft diffused light of a sunset, or it could be a more pronounced balance of light and shadow for contrasting black and white photos. Your lighting should be in harmony with the shape and pose of the model so that you can get the most aesthetically pleasing photographs.

    Experiment with different photography techniques. Until your photos become known for their own distinctive style, don't be afraid to experiment with different compositions, filters, lighting, and so on. Each of your models will be unique, so each of your photos should be somewhat different from the rest. Be thoughtful and take the time to capture all the nuances of your subject, location, lighting, and action.

    • Mix different techniques. For example, include a few black and white photos in a series of rich color shots, or find other ways to include various thematic elements in your photography.
    • Consider what can be done to improve appearance of your photos (without changing them too much) while editing.
  2. Don't be afraid to be spontaneous. You don't have to be too strict about pre-set plans. Although it is important to have certain ideas in mind, improvisation can give you fresh and exciting footage. Sometimes best ideas are born by accident when you are just fooling around. Who knows, you might make a breakthrough if you just let things take their course.

    • Instead of sticking strictly to a sequence of predetermined poses, let the model move and pose freely while you photograph everything you can. If there is nothing worthwhile in the frames, then you can easily delete them, but you may end up with one or two truly special photos.
  3. Don't feel like your photos have to be very revealing. Excite lifeless shots with a selection of clever ways to hide or play with the charms of the subject. Use minimalistic accessories (scarves, jewelry) to cover the intimate parts of the body, or shoot the model from an unusual angle or in the process of interacting with furnishings, taking into account the spatial perspective. The goal of nude photography is not always to show the female body in all its details. Sometimes the fewer the better.

Part 3

Treat the model with respect
  1. Give the model some privacy. Give the model a private place where she can undress and get ready for the photo shoot. This way she won't have to undress in the field right in front of you and the rest of your team. Any person will feel uncomfortable completely taking off their clothes in the presence of spectators. Remember that the model's comfort is of paramount importance, even if she has been nude hundreds of times before.

    • It's also a good idea to have a bathrobe or other comfortable clothing ready for the model to put on if she gets chilly while you prepare for the next series of photo shoots.
    • Be prepared to clear the set of excess personnel and start working one-on-one with the model if she doesn't like the idea of ​​having a large crowd around.
  2. Try not to touch the girl. As a photographer, you must be aware of your intentions and be able to give clear instructions so that the model can realize them. This does not mean that you can treat the model as if it were an inanimate object. Be clear about your instructions on how and what to do, rather than trying to pose the model yourself. Even if there is nothing wrong with your intentions, any touching of a girl when she is completely naked can be misinterpreted.

    • Make it a rule to keep your hands away from the model, unless she herself asks you to help her strike or reproduce a certain pose.
    • The nude model is not a prop. Remember that the woman you are photographing is also a person who has every right not to be touched without permission.
  3. Cooperate with the model. Give the model some freedom in how she poses. Encourage her to make her own contribution to your project by showing her personality. It is likely that this will not be her first nude photo shoot, so with her experience and knowledge of her own body, she will have a better idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat looks best in photos. Feed off each other's ideas and draw your inspiration from them.

    • Make sure the model agrees to your requests before asking them to comply.
    • Working with a model that knows how to help you make your vision a reality can be a very rewarding experience for you.
  4. Conduct yourself professionally. Your interest in nude photography should be solely due to the fact that you see beauty, mystery and great expressiveness in the naked human body. Take the model seriously, perceive it as an experienced master of their craft with their own considerations. Never make jokes about her body, do not make ambiguous or judgmental remarks. If you offend the model, she will begin to have a negative attitude towards working with you.

    • If you seriously upset the model, she may be openly critical of your talents and advise others to also refuse to work with you.
  • Try to make sure that the process of photographing is fun and good-natured. This will help build confidence, uplift the spirit and create a more pleasant atmosphere for communication.
  • Prepare a playlist of your model's favorite music to make her feel more relaxed and confident during the photo shoot.
  • Ask the model to come to the photo shoot in loose clothes. This will avoid unsightly marks on the body from tight outfits.
  • When you're done taking a photo, use the photo editor to improve the look of your photos, as well as fix obvious imperfections in your photos.
  • Ask the model to lubricate the skin with a thin layer of oil. Light shine will emphasize the contours of the body and help to achieve the maximum result from the supplied lighting.

Warnings

  • Ask the model for her opinion on editing her body features in photos. Some models are more tolerant than others.
  • Be sure to ask the model for permission to touch her or start filming her in a new pose.
  • Before submitting photos, make sure that the model has nothing against other people seeing her photos.
  • Do not do anything to overly sexually arouse the model during or outside of the photo shoot.

The nude theme has been popular since ancient times, even before the invention of photography. At all times, the beauty of the naked body was admired. Here we take a look at female nude photography and give you tips from experts to help you get started in nude art. Plus you get a free posing guide.

Start: Finding a Model

Perhaps the biggest problem is to find a model who is ready to shoot nude. If you're lucky, it could be one of your acquaintances, but this rarely happens. Most The best way- Look for local models on well-known sites such as http://www.modelmayhem.com/ , http://www.purestorm.com/ and http://www.onemodelplace.com/ . These sites are a meeting place for photographers and models. You will usually be able to find a local model willing to be filmed on TFP terms.

If you go down this path, you need to clearly state what is expected of both parties, especially if there is no financial commitment. Experienced models will most likely not agree to work on the terms of TFP, however, if you want to make a good portfolio, it is worth considering investing some money in it. It's not so much about finding models who enjoy being nude, but about finding correct type figures for artistic shooting nude. You need to carefully study the portfolio of the model before inviting her to shoot. There is a noticeable difference between models who shoot primarily in the glamor genre and in the nude genre.

Choosing a shooting studio

You don't need a huge studio to take good nude photos, but you still need to have enough space to position a couple of lights and a background, as well as to stand back enough to shoot the whole model without using a wide-angle lens. The medium-sized living room practically meets the minimum requirements. We rented one of the studios in Reading for the day. There are many studios in the UK that offer this kind of service. Many also offer a one-day nude photography course and will find a model for you. Prices and conditions vary, but on average be prepared to pay £50 an hour for a studio and model. If you are on a budget, you can share the cost with one of your colleagues or friends who would like to join you.

Lighting for nude photography

Studio lighting can seem very complicated to the uninitiated, but now that you can view the image and histogram on the camera screen, everything is much easier. The lighting tips below are a good starting point, giving you three basic patterns for setting up your light. If you're new to the studio, start with simple circuits - you'll be surprised at how creative you can use one light source and reflector. Once you're comfortable with one source, move on to more complex options like high and low key.

If you don't have your own lighting kit, there are places where you can rent one. For example, at http://www.theflashcentre.com/ you can grab a two-source Elinchrom 300RX weekend set for just £14.

However, studio lighting is optional. Daylight from a window, ideally facing north, makes for great photos. Even using a regular on-camera flash can be a good alternative.

It is better to use, if possible, simpler lighting schemes. You don't want to miss out on interesting shooting moments by constantly adjusting the light, do you? Before the model arrives, you can try out your lighting ideas on a dressed assistant, then you will be completely ready to shoot and do not waste time. Try not to worry and stay calm while shooting.

Basic Nude Lighting Scheme

This scheme is a good starting point for artistic nude photography. Two light sources are directed at the model at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. It is better to place the main light a little higher than the model. Its power must be greater. The second source is filling, its intensity should be less and it should be placed lower. If you only have one light source, use a regular reflector.

High Key Lighting

To create a soft, even light, place two softboxes directly in front of the model. One should shine from above, its power is higher. The other softbox is located at the bottom and has a slightly lower power (shell scheme). Use two additional sources to light the background so that it becomes pure white. To separate the model from the background, use two large black panels on the sides. This will create a slight darkening along the contour.

Low Key Lighting

Basic studio equipment

There are many starter kits that you can buy online. For example, the excellent Apollo Pro Line 300. Usually the following equipment is included in the kit:

Studio flashes have controls on the back. You can control the power of the pulsed and pilot light. The modeling light allows you to evaluate the light pattern on the model while setting up the circuit.

An umbrella is included as standard in most kits. It happens with a silver, golden and white coating, for reflection and for transmission. Easily attached to the flash.

softbox

The softbox is also attached to the flash and gives a soft, diffused light. There are different forms and sizes. Gives more controlled light than an umbrella.

Racks have great importance. Flashes are attached to them. Racks are telescopic, which allows you to adjust the height of the source. To improve the stability of the stand when using heavy flashes and attachments, use a counterweight.

Nude art is often shot in monochrome, so simple black, white, or gray paper backdrops can be used. To get a deep black background, it is best to use natural black velvet.

Lenses and camera settings

For these shots, we used three lenses for the Nikon D700 full-frame camera. These are Nikon AF-S 24-120mm f/4G ED VR, Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.4 G, and Nikon 60mm f/2.8 Macro. The wide end of the 24-120 was fine for full length shots, and the macro lens did a great job of close-ups. But our favorite lens is the 85mm f/1.4. The excellent quality of the optics makes it ideal for this type of shooting.

When you are working in a flash studio, use the M mode.

For most of the photos we used f/8 and a shutter speed of 1/200 sec. As a rule, at this aperture, lenses have the best sharpness. Obviously flash exposure is created by the combination of flash output and aperture. To cut off the influence of external constant lighting in the studio, you need to use a fast shutter speed, as a rule, no longer than 1/100 second. But don't exceed the sync speed.

A tripod is not needed for studio shooting, as a very short flash pulse is guaranteed to “freeze” the object. Therefore, you can move freely and take pictures from different angles.

Your first nude shoot

The studio is chosen, the model is found, now it's time to create.

If you're renting a studio and paying a model for every hour of work, you don't want to spend time thinking about what to do next. Besides ruining the creative process, it looks unprofessional. So make a plan ahead of time. It doesn't matter that you can deviate from it during the shooting process, as long as it is there. Work rationally. For example, if you planned to take pictures with three schemes on a black background and two on white ones, do so in order to change the background only once.

There is nothing worse than spending time in post-processing removing various defects. The most unpleasant from this point of view are traces of rubber bands underwear. They disappear after quite a long time, so it is better if your model comes to the shooting in loose clothes without underwear. Experienced models do just that. It is better if, upon arrival, the model immediately takes off her clothes and puts on a soft bathrobe so that possible traces of clothes are guaranteed to disappear. Make sure. that the model feels comfortable when shooting.

As with all genres of photography, good composition is an essential element of a good nude shot. The same general rules, such as the rule of thirds, can be applied to nude photography as well. This creates a visual sense of harmony in the frame. Look at the beautiful forms that are created with the naked body and light. Don't be afraid to deviate from the rules when necessary, if it improves the photo, you don't need to take the advice as dogma.

As you frame your shot in the viewfinder, get in the habit of running your eyes around the perimeter of the frame, evaluating the overall framing and pose of the model. The slightest change in angle or camera tilt can make a huge difference in a picture. Don't be afraid to take a lot of photos, moving around and changing the point of view and the pose of the model. Stock up on memory cards, these days they are inexpensive.

Nude photography poses

We invite you to download our free Nude Guide - it has great tips on getting started and basic poses. In order to get the most out of it, you first need to understand a little about the theory of setting the model.

Let's start with the concept of "contrapost". This is a term borrowed from art referring to the human body. Contrapost (from Italian. contrapposto- “opposite”), a technique for depicting a figure in art, in which the position of one part of the body is contrasted with the position of another part. For example, the upper body can be shown in a turn, the lower part frontally, the weight of the body is concentrated on one leg, while the other is free, although not separated from the floor.

If you look at the works of the classics of art, for example, the sculpture David by Michelangelo or modern fashion magazines, we will see contrapost everywhere. Understanding the principles of contraposta is the key to creating a beautiful pose, even if you shoot the model from the waist down to the waist, it is still important to pay attention to the position of the model's legs. This is important, as the position of the legs determines everything else, including the position and posture of the upper body.

Direct eye contact when shooting art nudes is best avoided, as a direct eye is more associated with glamor or beauty. However, this rule can also be broken if a direct look works well for the idea of ​​the picture.

Black and white photographs

Monochrome is often used for art nude photography, as the removal of color information helps to focus on line, shape, and texture. To make it easier for yourself when shooting, if you want to get black and white photos, switch your camera to monochrome mode. So you can not be distracted by color and focus on lighting.

As long as you shoot in RAW, switching your camera to monochrome will not affect your image in any way, you will just see a black and white image on the camera screen. This means that when you download it to your computer, you will see the original color image and, when processed, you can get both monochrome and color versions.

Abstraction and details

Art nude is an art that celebrates the harmony of the forms of the human body. Focusing on certain parts bodies, using natural curves and shapes, you can create interesting abstract shots. To do this, it is good to use one hard light source that clearly draws lines and shadows. For the abstract photo above, we used a 60mm macro lens on our full-frame camera, which allowed us to capture both medium and close-ups. Don't be afraid to drastically frame the image when shooting, such as completely excluding the model's head from the frame. Abstract photography presents us with known shapes, lines and textures in such a way that we do not immediately understand what kind of object is in the picture.

Try High Key Nude Shooting

A good high key shot is not an overexposed image. You have to skillfully show details in the highlights as well, while pushing the tonal range as close to the highlights as possible. In order to make it easier for yourself, navigate by the histogram on the camera screen. Ideally, you should move the histogram as far to the right as possible without clipping in the lightest significant areas ( White background is not a significant area). Turn on your camera's backlight warning when overexposed areas flicker.

To create a high key shot, we used two softboxes in front, one above and one below, and a white background lit by two softboxes. When shooting in high key, there is a risk of losing the model's skin tones at the edges due to reflections from the background. To separate the model from the background, we used black screens on the sides. You need to place them as close to the model as possible, avoiding falling into the frame. The black light absorbers will create a dark outline around the model. By additionally separating the model from the background, they will create additional volume.

Lovely low key

Very often in the art nude, the tonal solution of the image is used in a low key. Using a dark background and side lighting, you can create a beautiful play of light and shadow on the body, which emphasizes the beautiful curves and shapes of the figure.

The ideal material for creating a completely black background in the picture is natural black velvet. Natural velvet absorbs light unlike other materials. If you don't have velvet, you can use a black paper background, but you'll have to carefully control the light to prevent it from reflecting off the paper.


Use understatement

The art of nude photography is quite subtle, quite often the photographer does not reveal all the nudity, but only suggests its presence. This is what distinguishes nude art from glamor photography. The partial concealment of a naked body implies mystery and significance, excites the imagination and forces us to mentally complete the picture. Turning the model's head or looking away or away is a great way to add a sense of mystery. Or the model can look down, as in the photo above. Use the model's limbs to hide some parts of the body.

Get inspired

Browse the works of art nude masters. The most famous of them are Edward Weston, Bill Brandt, Man Ray. Contemporary photographers include John Swannel and Robert Mapplethorpe. Don't limit yourself to photos. You can draw ideas and inspiration from various works of art. Going to an art gallery can be a good incentive.

Model Agreement

If you are going to use photos for various purposes, you need to protect yourself from any misunderstandings. To do this, you need to sign an agreement with the model (model release). Also ask the model to bring her passport to the shoot to make sure she is of legal age. While the copyright to the images always remains with the photographer, it is clear that the model will also want to include them in her portfolio if you are working on TFP terms (in commercial shooting, the photographer is not required to give the photos to the model, he pays her money for this). This is perfectly fair, but it's a good idea to make sure the model signs you as the author of the photos and possibly links to your site.

Okay, you can go. I will think.

…“The audience is over. Everybody's Free". Lowering my shoulders, I trudged along the corridor after the director.

I'll call you back to let you know that your issue has been resolved, - the "real colonel" said goodbye to me somehow too formally before slamming the door of his office in my face.

Well, how did it go? - Pashka asked, not hiding the curiosity flowing from all the cracks.

Oh no, I just waved my hand. And, referring to business, he quickly retreated home.

Lenka, I also did not dedicate the details. Just said it didn't burn out. She sympathized, saying: “Do not be sad, Kotya, everything is ahead of us with you!” I can't stand it when she calls me Kitty...

... Pashka called the next evening.

Well, Konstantin! Cunning same you type! What are you saying to our master? We have never received anyone so quickly.

What? I hurried.

What ... Over the shoulder! You have been hired. In the strip Come check it out tomorrow.

Silent scene...

We didn't get the form. For the sake of such an occasion, I had to buy a black suit, a white shirt and a tie, which I never wore and did not even know how to tie. Lenka did it.

At a strip club, you mean? Nu-nu, - she said with a suspicious frown, tightening a black silk "noose" on my throat.

What does "nu-nu" mean? There are, by the way, very strict rules. And then, you know, they also talk about the work of secretaries in all sorts of different ways. And you haven’t heard any “nu-nu” from me about this yet.

Lenka laughed.

Well, you say! My boss is actually female. So, Kitty, behave yourself.

And Lenka jokingly shook her finger at me in parting.

... As for the strict rules, I did not dissemble one iota. The first thing our shift supervisor warned me about after showing me around the locker room, shower room and my locker was:

Girls do not paw! If anyone, God forbid, complains, they will be expelled immediately. No severance pay.

He also grumbled a little about my hair (I had shoulder-length hair - a tribute to my passion for hard rock, and Lenka really liked it. However, going out on new job, I pulled them into the tail.) - you won’t understand, they say, what kind of men they went, let go of their hair, but then he allowed them to proceed to their duties.

It was our duty to keep order, but at the same time not to shine in the hall. Yes, check back periodically. Well, and if there is noise and screams, then run to the rescue.

I got used to the sight of half-naked (or even completely naked) curvy girls in the very first hours. At first I did not know where to put my eyes, and then this phenomenon began to be perceived as something completely normal and ordinary. In the morning it was even unusual to see dressed girls on the street. In addition, “off the stage” the girls behaved in such a way that they could hardly excite anyone. I remember how on the very first night I ran when I heard screams and abuse near the administrator's room in the hall. A miniature angel-like creature in pink and white lace swore, like a plumber, not even three, but, perhaps, a seven-story mat. I figured out what was wrong pretty quickly. The girl was outraged by the behavior of two clients, who are usually called persons of Caucasian nationality. When the “angel”, having finished the dance, left the stage into the hall, these same “persons” invited her to their booth to dance private. According to the rules, a girl can touch them, but they can’t touch her. They did not want to follow the rules of the "face".

Yes, these black-ass fuckers immediately got into my underpants! - the "angel" was indignant. - I sent them to ***. And this rat - Larka - immediately opened the **** nik: they say, let's dance, it's paid. Yes, she went! Let him substitute his **** if he takes loot from them!

"Larka" is Larisa, the administrator. A pale and nondescript person, in the past - also a stripper. However, about the latter, all the girls unanimously doubted: “What kind of stripper is she?! **** she, there is nowhere to put the stigma! On the very first night, I found out that the administrator Larisa herself was the initiator of violating the rules of the club (if it promises her income, of course) and, moreover, is quietly engaged in pandering. This was expressed in the fact that a good half of the girls were recruited not at all for dancing, and, in fact, they did not really know how to dance. But, having shown in the hall, so to speak, the goods in person (and in other places), Larisa organized post-club “privates” with clients for these girls. Of course, for a good bribe. These girls were called "privat". But the "angel" definitely did not belong to their number.

Meanwhile, the conflict continued. Dissatisfied "faces" also came to complain to the administrator's room and demand money back. They were outraged loudly and obscenely. I already wanted to intervene, but Ryba (Rybnikov, our shift supervisor, a short, stocky uncle from former cops), rudely stopped me:

Stay where you are! Still not enough - to start a fight because of these tattered cats!

I was uncomfortably struck by the malice evident in his voice. Why does he work here if he hates these girls so much?

Soon, Larisa still calmed the clients down by slipping them two "privates" who agreed to everything for a fee.

... The next few shifts went smoothly. I could relax and admire the dances: some of the girls danced so bewitchingly beautiful that it was a truly aesthetic pleasure.

A couple of times Igor Andreevich himself came in, whom now I could call the owner. He did not enter the hall, but stood in the doorway, watching, with his arms folded across his chest and an imperturbable expression on his face. But everyone immediately noticed him. And, I think, not only because of the tall growth (somewhere under two meters). Under his steely gaze, it seemed that even the strippers on the pylon began to spin somehow more cheerfully and more collected.

And I was still lost in his presence. And after all, he did not even look in my direction, but it was as if the soil was leaving from under my feet. There were some strange, contradictory sensations. I wanted to run away, hide, become as inconspicuous as possible, but instead I caught myself trying to catch his eye, to get his attention. What for? Then I did not find a single reasonable answer to this question, and unreasonable ones simply did not occur to me.

The study of physics at school lasts several years. At the same time, students are faced with the problem that the same letters denote completely different quantities. Most often, this fact is Latin letters. How then to solve problems?

There is no need to be afraid of such a repetition. Scientists tried to introduce them into the designation so that the same letters did not meet in one formula. Most often, students come across the Latin n. It can be lowercase or uppercase. Therefore, the question logically arises of what n is in physics, that is, in a certain formula that the student encountered.

What does the capital letter N stand for in physics?

Most often in the school course, it occurs in the study of mechanics. After all, there it can be immediately in spirit values ​​- the power and strength of the normal reaction of the support. Naturally, these concepts do not intersect, because they are used in different sections of mechanics and are measured in different units. Therefore, it is always necessary to define exactly what n is in physics.

Power is the rate of change in the energy of a system. It is a scalar value, that is, just a number. Its unit of measurement is the watt (W).

The force of the normal reaction of the support is the force that acts on the body from the side of the support or suspension. In addition to a numerical value, it has a direction, that is, it is a vector quantity. Moreover, it is always perpendicular to the surface on which the external action is performed. The unit of this N is the newton (N).

What is N in physics, in addition to the quantities already indicated? It could be:

    the Avogadro constant;

    magnification of the optical device;

    substance concentration;

    Debye number;

    total radiation power.

What can a lowercase n stand for in physics?

The list of names that can be hidden behind it is quite extensive. The designation n in physics is used for such concepts:

    refractive index, and it can be absolute or relative;

    neutron - a neutral elementary particle with a mass slightly greater than that of a proton;

    frequency of rotation (used to replace the Greek letter "nu", as it is very similar to the Latin "ve") - the number of repetitions of revolutions per unit of time, measured in hertz (Hz).

What does n mean in physics, besides the already indicated values? It turns out that the main quantum number is hidden behind it ( the quantum physics), concentration and Loschmidt constant (molecular physics). By the way, when calculating the concentration of a substance, you need to know the value, which is also written in the Latin "en". It will be discussed below.

What physical quantity can be denoted by n and N?

Its name comes from the Latin word numerus, in translation it sounds like "number", "quantity". Therefore, the answer to the question of what n means in physics is quite simple. This is the number of any objects, bodies, particles - everything that is discussed in a particular task.

Moreover, “quantity” is one of the few physical quantities that do not have a unit of measure. It's just a number, no name. For example, if the problem is about 10 particles, then n will be equal to just 10. But if it turns out that the lowercase “en” is already taken, then you have to use an uppercase letter.

Formulas that use an uppercase N

The first of them defines the power, which is equal to the ratio of work to time:

In molecular physics, there is such a thing as the chemical amount of a substance. Denoted by the Greek letter "nu". To calculate it, you should divide the number of particles by the Avogadro number:

By the way, the last value is also denoted by the so popular letter N. Only it always has a subscript - A.

To determine the electric charge, you need the formula:

Another formula with N in physics - oscillation frequency. To calculate it, you need to divide their number by the time:

The letter "en" appears in the formula for the circulation period:

Formulas that use a lowercase n

In a school physics course, this letter is most often associated with the refractive index of matter. Therefore, it is important to know the formulas with its application.

So, for the absolute refractive index, the formula is written as follows:

Here c is the speed of light in vacuum, v is its speed in a refracting medium.

The formula for the relative refractive index is somewhat more complicated:

n 21 \u003d v 1: v 2 \u003d n 2: n 1,

where n 1 and n 2 are the absolute refractive indices of the first and second medium, v 1 and v 2 are the speeds of the light wave in these substances.

How to find n in physics? The formula will help us with this, in which we need to know the angles of incidence and refraction of the beam, that is, n 21 \u003d sin α: sin γ.

What is n equal to in physics if it is the index of refraction?

Typically, tables give values ​​for the absolute refractive indices of various substances. Do not forget that this value depends not only on the properties of the medium, but also on the wavelength. Tabular values ​​of the refractive index are given for the optical range.

So, it became clear what n is in physics. To avoid any questions, it is worth considering some examples.

Power Challenge

№1. During plowing, the tractor pulls the plow evenly. In doing so, it applies a force of 10 kN. With this movement for 10 minutes, he overcomes 1.2 km. It is required to determine the power developed by it.

Convert units to SI. You can start with force, 10 N equals 10,000 N. Then the distance: 1.2 × 1000 = 1200 m. The time left is 10 × 60 = 600 s.

Choice of formulas. As mentioned above, N = A: t. But in the task there is no value for work. To calculate it, another formula is useful: A \u003d F × S. The final form of the formula for power looks like this: N \u003d (F × S): t.

Decision. We calculate first the work, and then the power. Then in the first action you get 10,000 × 1,200 = 12,000,000 J. The second action gives 12,000,000: 600 = 20,000 W.

Answer. Tractor power is 20,000 watts.

Tasks for the refractive index

№2. The absolute refractive index of glass is 1.5. The speed of light propagation in glass is less than in vacuum. It is required to determine how many times.

There is no need to convert data to SI.

When choosing formulas, you need to stop at this one: n \u003d c: v.

Decision. It can be seen from this formula that v = c: n. This means that the speed of light in glass is equal to the speed of light in vacuum divided by the refractive index. That is, it is reduced by half.

Answer. The speed of light propagation in glass is 1.5 times less than in vacuum.

№3. There are two transparent media. The speed of light in the first of them is 225,000 km / s, in the second - 25,000 km / s less. A ray of light goes from the first medium to the second. The angle of incidence α is 30º. Calculate the value of the angle of refraction.

Do I need to convert to SI? Speeds are given in off-system units. However, when substituting into formulas, they will be reduced. Therefore, it is not necessary to convert speeds to m/s.

The choice of formulas needed to solve the problem. You will need to use the law of light refraction: n 21 \u003d sin α: sin γ. And also: n = c: v.

Decision. In the first formula, n 21 is the ratio of the two refractive indices of the substances under consideration, that is, n 2 and n 1. If we write down the second indicated formula for the proposed environments, then we get the following: n 1 = c: v 1 and n 2 = c: v 2. If you make the ratio of the last two expressions, it turns out that n 21 \u003d v 1: v 2. Substituting it into the formula for the law of refraction, we can derive the following expression for the sine of the angle of refraction: sin γ \u003d sin α × (v 2: v 1).

We substitute the values ​​of the indicated velocities and the sine of 30º (equal to 0.5) into the formula, it turns out that the sine of the angle of refraction is 0.44. According to the Bradis table, it turns out that the angle γ is 26º.

Answer. The value of the angle of refraction is 26º.

Tasks for the period of circulation

№4. The blades of a windmill rotate with a period of 5 seconds. Calculate the number of revolutions of these blades in 1 hour.

To convert to SI units, only the time is 1 hour. It will be equal to 3600 seconds.

Selection of formulas. The period of rotation and the number of revolutions are related by the formula T \u003d t: N.

Decision. From this formula, the number of revolutions is determined by the ratio of time to period. Thus, N = 3600: 5 = 720.

Answer. The number of revolutions of the mill blades is 720.

№5. The aircraft propeller rotates at a frequency of 25 Hz. How long does it take the screw to complete 3,000 revolutions?

All data is given with SI, so nothing needs to be translated.

Required Formula: frequency ν = N: t. From it it is only necessary to derive a formula for the unknown time. It is a divisor, so it is supposed to be found by dividing N by ν.

Decision. Dividing 3,000 by 25 results in the number 120. It will be measured in seconds.

Answer. An airplane propeller makes 3000 revolutions in 120 s.

Summing up

When a student encounters a formula containing n or N in a physics problem, he needs to deal with two things. The first is from which section of physics the equality is given. This may be clear from the heading in a textbook, reference book, or the teacher's words. Then you should decide what is hidden behind the many-sided "en". Moreover, the name of the units of measurement helps in this, if, of course, its value is given. Another option is also allowed: carefully look at the rest of the letters in the formula. Perhaps they will be familiar and will give a hint in the issue being resolved.

Alexey Nikolaev
Consumer Magazine, Photo & Video Cameras N3 2000

Introduction

I note that the material is written from an "amateur" point of view. This means that the approach to shooting involves getting first positive emotions, not the production of a commercially viable image that must be sold. That is, we set ourselves the task of capturing beauty, and not making money. We will also not consider such examples of professional photography of people as wedding photography, advertising, etc.

What is nude and act

Let's look at the encyclopedic dictionary.

ACT - (German Akt), in the fine arts, the image of a naked human figure; the same as nude.

NU - (French nu - naked, undressed), an image of a naked female body; a genre of fine art that reveals in the image of a naked body ideas about beauty, the value of earthly sensual being.

As we can see, we are talking about art and beauty, and not about physiology. Many amateur photographers begin to photograph nudity precisely from the capture of primary sexual characteristics. Of course, you yourself determine what and how you want to shoot, but artistic taste is what you need to cultivate in yourself if you want your photos to be beautiful and interesting not only for you. This can be achieved in many ways, such as by studying the work of recognized masters.

In this regard, I highly recommend getting acquainted with the classics of the genre, for example, the works of Gunars Binde, Janis Gleizds, and, of course, Rimantas Dikhavičius, whose works radiate the aroma of beauty and harmony. Quite different in spirit are the works of another classic - Helmut Newton, whose unique erotic-ironic style can be unmistakably defined.

About types of shooting.

It's hard to describe how you "should" shoot nudity, as it's a very individual process. Each person sees and feels differently, so there are a variety of approaches to photographing people. Some photographers try to capture the sexuality of the model, others - to reveal the personality, others - to capture some fleeting state, and so on. Each of these genres, of course, requires a different approach to shooting, very likely even the participation of different models, etc.

Shooting people can be conditionally divided into staged and reportage. In staged shooting, you come up with a plot, light, clothes, maybe makeup in advance, and shoot deliberately and slowly. Reportage, on the contrary, involves a significant amount of spontaneity when shooting. In this case, you have to be only a witness to the action, and the main thing here is to be ready to capture that very unique moment that will turn out to be the most beautiful, interesting or curious. Reporting in this case does not mean shooting in a bathhouse or on a nudist beach. It's just that the model is given much more freedom in choosing poses, etc. - that is, a kind of complicity in the creative process.

About models

What should be the model? Perhaps it should be such as to inspire the author. Otherwise, why photograph it at all, if, as we agreed, we do not pursue our goal of making money?

Of course, there is a well-known stereotype "90-60-90", but it is worth noting that even for many "supermodels" the figure does not always correspond to these parameters. The main thing is that the figure of the model is proportional and harmonious. Sometimes it would seem that an imperfectly folded model is able to "give all the best" when shooting, to show such internal states that the result is enchanting.

It is very important that the model has good skin. Moderately tanned skin often looks very advantageous in the pictures. On the other hand, "white spots" from a swimsuit on a tanned body do not always look aesthetically pleasing. Minor skin defects can be tried to "repair" with foundation, or use softening filters when shooting.

Undoubtedly, there must be trust between you and the model, otherwise everything loses its meaning. During the shooting, it is important to create all the conditions for the model to feel as confident and calm as possible. For example, she must be sure that no one will suddenly enter the room, etc. Naturally, extra people should not be present during the shooting. To make the model feel more confident, it is useful in the studio to have a mirror of sufficient size, in which the model could see herself directly during the shooting.

The best subject to start with would probably be the author's wife or girlfriend. The difficulty of shooting close or dear people lies in the fact that they have certain stereotypes in relation to the author (and vice versa) that can interfere with the successful implementation of their plans. So, these stereotypes will have to be overcome.

If this is the first shoot of its kind for the model, then it is wise to start with a portrait, gradually moving to more nude poses.

Many of the photographers shooting in the "Dikhavičius style" use mostly non-professional models for shooting, since what is required here, first of all, is not the longest legs or a wasp waist, but sincerity and purity. Love your model and idolize her, then you simply cannot get bad shots.

While one model may look very good in nature, another "urban" model will simply not be able to feel comfortable in such an environment and therefore the shots will be unnatural at best. Ideally, for each outdoor shooting you need to look for "your" model.

In order for the model to show her personality during the shooting, give her this opportunity! To do this, you do not need to put a model of a rigid framework and command it. Just watch and observe. Many people in life are very constrained, and sometimes you have to expend a lot of effort to ensure that the model "turns on" to the desired state for the author. One of my acquaintances, who shoots girls in nature, gives them time to walk in nature alone in order to feel the atmosphere and get in the right mood. In any case, it is highly desirable to most accurately convey the author's vision and mood in the picture, what the author admires at the moment.

Sometimes it can be quite difficult to shoot professional models if she shows dead learned poses and you want to show her as an individual. In such cases, you should have a "conversation" with the model so that she tries to put out of her mind what she was taught, and which may be an obstacle to your shooting.

When shooting people, you always have to take into account various human characteristics (character, mentality, taste, etc.). I must say that the ability to interact with people for a photographer is no less important than the ability to shoot. Humor and patience are the main qualities that allow you to achieve your plan.

Legal "aspects" of creativity

We all live in a state and therefore automatically fall under the laws that apply in its territory. As a photographer who shoots nudes or people, it's a good idea to keep the following in mind.

The right to own image is a personal non-property right of citizens, protected by civil law (Article 2, 150 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation). Reproduction and distribution (including publication) of images of citizens without their consent will be a violation of this right.

The most reliable way to resolve this problem is to issue a written permission for the RIGHT OF REPRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION OF THE IMAGE OF THE PERSON. The fact of payment of remuneration to a photo model for shooting does not confirm the right to distribute the image, but can only mean payment for her working time. Conversely, the right to distribute an image can be granted free of charge.

Citizens under the age of 14 are considered incompetent, from 14 to 18 years of age - with limited capacity. Thus, the right to depict them (and especially their nudity) should be obtained from their legal representatives (parents, guardians, trustees). Otherwise, the case may go into the sphere of criminal proceedings (a number of articles of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation, for example, Art. 132, providing for liability for violent acts sexual in nature, including (part 2) committed against a knowingly minor (minor) person.

How to photograph people

There are a few purely technical "fads" that are good to keep in mind when shooting people, and, in particular, nudity:

    when shooting at full height or so, it is undesirable to use a shooting point higher than the model (unless special effects are required), as this will shorten the legs and distort the proportions of the body in the picture.

    if the model's legs are not long enough or you want to make her look even longer in the photo, use the lower shooting points. You can also achieve interesting shots by combining wide-angle shooting with a low point of view.

    often when shooting people, they use optics ranging from 50 or 85mm, and 50mm lenses, if they are used, are usually when shooting in full growth. It should be taken into account that lenses with short focal lengths distort the linear dimensions of the object being photographed more. Therefore, if some part of the model is a little closer to the lens when shooting (for example, the nose or part of the hand in portrait shooting), then this part will appear larger than it actually is, which usually confuses the viewer and does not look very aesthetically pleasing. . That is why the portrait is classically shot at focal lengths of 50 and 85-135mm. Although everything should be approached creatively, because. in art there can be no rigid "possible" and "impossible". That's what art is for.

    if you want to emphasize the volume of the model's chest, you should not lay her on her back. Ask the model to take various poses, and you yourself will be able to find many interesting points of view. When shooting, make sure that there are no folds in the skin (most often - on the stomach or around the waist when the body is turned excessively). The ribs that show through the skin look rather ugly, so if you want, say, to emphasize the shape of the chest with a curve, then you should not overdo it.

    sometimes you can very successfully use when shooting everything that comes to hand and is typical for the place where the shooting is taking place. It can be daisies growing nearby, rubbish in the basement of the house, a mop that came to hand, etc. It's also good to have some stock of various kinds of items that can come in handy when shooting. For example, pieces of transparent matter, various kinds of decorations, artificial flowers, etc. In the picture it is often appropriate to show the relationship of the model and her environment, this gives the picture liveliness and dynamism. The shots of Helmut Newton, who liked to photograph people in the midst of any suitable mess, are very revealing here (for example, his shots of Pina Bausch or Grace Jones und Dolph).

    do not forget to remove watches and jewelry from the model before shooting, if necessary.

    watch the background, let the horizon line not cut off the head from the body, no trees should grow "out of the head", etc. You should also evaluate the brightness and color of the background so that the picture is technically literate! To estimate the spread in the brightness of the model and the background, it can be useful to measure the brightness of the light for the model and the background separately.

    Get creative with your use of depth of field. If you want to separate the model from the background, use telephoto lenses with a focal length of 100mm or more. You can get interesting shots by focusing on certain parts of the body and shooting at an open aperture with high-aperture optics.

    very often pictures are cropped in such a way that people "have somewhere to look", i.e. in the direction of view, an empty space is usually left.

    use shooting a portrait in profile, full face, behind and in three quarters. It is also often possible to find an interesting shooting point well above eye level.

    Turning the head of the person being portrayed means a lot. It is advisable to use such shooting points when the face looks the best.

    Reflections in the eyes are a very important element in portrait photography. It often looks unnatural when multiple light sources are reflected in the eyes. Conversely, the reflection of a single flash enlivens the portrait, adding sparkle in the eyes. Sometimes a weak flash is used for this purpose, which practically does not affect the light pattern, but gives a glare in the eyes.

    Often portraits use relatively small apertures to achieve a shallow depth of field. In this case, the sharpness should be aimed at the eyes of the person being portrayed. With this approach, it is easy to hide small skin defects, if any.

    many people don't have a very nice nose in profile, keep an eye on this when shooting. In general, you should carefully study the model before shooting and decide which side it looks best from. You can ask the model to tell you about your shortcomings so that after the shooting there will be no unnecessary disappointments (although over time you will learn to see the "critical places" yourself).

    watch out for the shadows! The eye sockets should not "fall through". The shadows from the nose and chin should not be too harsh. Often in color photography, such lighting is used so that the contrast on the face does not exceed one step.

    Use a fill flash or reflector to highlight shadows and lower contrast.

    choose the right time of day and/or weather for filming.

    traces of underwear usually remain on the body, therefore, when shooting nudity, the model should be undressed 20-40 minutes before shooting. To make her feel comfortable, you can give her some kind of jacket or loose cape.

    when shooting, it is useful to use music suitable for the mood and genre of shooting

    if possible, study what has already been achieved by photographers and painters. It is not necessary to try to copy their works, although copying is in itself a very difficult task.

    If you are shooting nude for the first time and your knees are trembling, don't worry, this is normal. Apparently, it makes sense to warn the model that this is your first shooting of this kind.

    What to take with you for an outdoor shoot? As a general rule, the minimum kit should include a camera with a flash (or a reflector instead of a flash), a good lens (usually a telephoto lens), and enough film. Sometimes it is useful to grab a tripod. You may need something warm to temporarily cover the model from the cold, while the attire should be loose and easy to shed. When shooting outdoors, it is advisable to take a means against flying blood-sucking insects. In this case, it is better to use spray products in cylinders. It's a good idea to take some food with you and plastic bottle with water. Let your model capture a reasonable amount of makeup.

    and most importantly - take pictures the way you like. After all, for the sake of this, everything, in fact, was started ...

Personally, when shooting people, I like the 85 or 90mm lens the most. A lens with such a focal length allows you to shoot both a half-length portrait and a full-length portrait, without having to go far back. The 85mm lens allows you to separate the model from the background, and at the same time show the environment in which the model is located (especially good when shooting outdoors). Optics with a focal length of 100mm or more make the image too flat for my taste. It should be remembered that any lens around the edge distorts the image. This effect is usually almost imperceptible when using telephoto lenses and is most pronounced when using wide-angle optics. Therefore, when shooting people with optics with a focal length shorter than 70mm. try not to place anything at the very edge of the frame that can be spoiled by this kind of distortion.

Often, when shooting outdoors, film with a sensitivity of 400 units is used. It is quite difficult to imagine how it is possible to shoot, say, in a forest even in summer during daylight hours with amateur zooms with a relative aperture of 5.6. It is good to have optics with a fixed focal length in your arsenal, especially since such optics (in addition to high aperture ratio) usually work better against light, have better optical characteristics (and often their own pattern), etc. Plus, using prime lenses will give you a much better feel for the frame and will make you think more (because instead of mindlessly twisting the zoom ring, you'll be working your feet and looking for best point shooting).

It is very good to have fast optics for shooting, as often beautiful natural light is rather weak, and using flash ruins everything, as the flash gives flat unnatural light. Sometimes a fast standard lens and 400 film (or higher) are the salvation of a photographer who does not want to spoil the beauty of natural light with a flash.

B/W or color?

Many nude photographers use black and white photographic materials. There are several reasons for this. First, black and white photography is traditional and the nude or portrait in black and white has a long tradition. Secondly, when using black and white materials, the photographer gets more degrees of freedom (since there are a huge number of creative techniques in black and white photography that are basically unrealizable in color photography), which means more room for creativity. Thirdly, when filming acts, color is usually redundant and is a distracting factor that makes it difficult to focus on the essence of the work. Although of course the choice of "b / w or color" always remains with the photographer.

It so happens that nowadays it is much easier for an amateur photographer to produce a color photograph than a black and white one. However, in my opinion, a fairly small percentage of photographers who shoot for color make good use of color in their composition. I think in this regard it will be useful for the reader to get acquainted with the work of the photographer Uwe Ommer, for example, with his album “Black Ladies” published by Taschen, which, according to the author, is not just a work of art, but also a great example of the use of color in photography in general. and when shooting nudes in particular.

photographic materials

In this section, I will try to characterize some of the photographic materials and their combinations that can be used in shooting, based on my experience. Moreover, if everything is more or less clear with color materials, then in black and white photography there are extremely many combinations of film / developer, which can give different results.

Black and white films.

Perhaps no other black and white film has generated as much controversy as the Kodak T-MAX. From unconditional worship and admiration, to statements that ultra-modern hi-tech film containing little silver, in principle, cannot give anything good. The truth probably lies somewhere in the middle. Kodak T-MAX films are indeed very specific and require precise exposure and processing.

Many photographers working with this material do not use the T-MAX at its nominal sensitivity. To get excellent results, it is usually overexposed (by up to one stop) and developed softer (i.e., reduced development time, exact data is given in Kodak F-32). Kodak's technical documentation indicates the need for such an approach when printing on a condenser enlarger (more on black and white photography is written in Consumer No. 10, 1998).

(Apparently, it is worth explaining that there are two fundamentally different types of enlargers that can be used to print black-and-white photographs. The first type is condenser enlargers, in which light from a lamp passes through a lens system - a condenser, after which it enters the negative. The second type of enlarger is the diffuse light source enlarger (usually all color print enlargers are of this type.) For black and white photography, the difference between these enlargers is that condenser enlargers generally require lower contrast negatives, while diffusion enlargers generally require higher contrast. ).

Different developers develop T-MAX differently, just like any other black and white film. It seems to me that the most versatile developer for T-MAX is D-76 (or its equivalent from ILFORD ID-11). At the same time, good results are obtained when using D-76 in a 1: 1 dilution (one-time, i.e. after use, the solution is poured). This combination gives high sharpness and satisfactory tonal gradations.

The T-MAX developer is quite good, and maybe even better than others, is able to use the advantages of T-MAX film. When using a combination of T-MAX with T-MAX developer, the grain is practically invisible to the eye at a magnification of up to 30x40 from 35 mm film, but this combination does not provide high sharpness. Of course, this is not always bad, and just when shooting portraits and nudes, it can be a desirable quality.

Some photographers successfully use the FX-1 and FX-2 developers, which give high edge sharpness and good gradation in the bright parts of the picture. The composition of FX-1 is simple and can be prepared independently.

The combination of T-MAX + Rodinal at a dilution of 1:50 gives very pleasant tonal gradations, while the resulting sharpness is not maximum, however, it seems to me, with portrait shooting "just right".

T-MAX and Kodak XTOL developer work well together, the grain is very fine, but the sharpness is not maximum. The structure of the grain is a little unusual (say, compared to what the classic D-76 gives), the grain is not pronounced and a little "soapy".

T-MAX films require precise exposure and processing conditions, and small deviations from these can cause significant deterioration in the quality of the negatives.

The closest analogue of films of the Kodak T-Max family are ILFORD Delta Professional films. It should be noted that these films are not so capricious in processing and usually the image obtained from them is more plastic. The graininess of Delta films may be slightly larger than that of T-Max, but still noticeably less than that of classic (non-T-Grain) materials. Some photographers find that Delta film does not adequately reproduce the light tone of human skin.

Fuji Neopan Professional films are well suited for nude photography because of their rich tonal gradations. They are usually shown in D-76 or its modifications.

These films are characterized by the fact that they are made using conventional, not “T-Grain” or similar technology (more on T-Grain technology is written in Consumer #10, 1998) and contain more silver. It should be noted that the listed Kodak films are the most "old", and therefore the range of compliance with the law of reciprocity (the law of reciprocity can be found in Consumer #11, 1999) is less than that of other films.

The listed films can be developed with anything, D-76 or ID-11 is often used. In the West, the PMK developer is popular, which, among other things, gives very good gradations in the bright areas of the image (which is important when shooting nudes). Agfa films are optimally developed in Rodinal.

There is a unique film for fashion photographers (i.e. fashion photographers) Kodak Tri-X Pro Pan 320 (not to be confused with the film of the same name, but 400 speed), which has the largest grain in its class, and with the richest tonal gradations. It is on this film that Helmut Newton shoots and at the same time believes that only this film properly conveys the plasticity of the human body. It should be added that such a film is only wide (type 120) and is not yet available in Russia.

It should be said that the vast majority of modern black-and-white films have an overestimated sensitivity. Of course, shooting film "at face value" will give you a very satisfactory result, but if you still want to get well-developed deep shadows, then usually the film will be overexposed and slightly underdeveloped. By the way, using this technique usually produces negatives of normal contrast (for printing on a condenser enlarger), while using the manufacturer's recommendation, contrast negatives will be obtained in most situations.

In the West, infrared materials are widely used for filming nudes, which have an interesting and unusual tonal reproduction. However, unfortunately, in our country, infrared materials are not yet sold and processed.

Color films.

From color films, you can use everything

, anything, the main thing is that the material is of high quality. Personally, I like Fuji materials the most, negative films are Superia Reala 100, NPS 160 and NPH 400.

Superia Reala has an "optimistic" view of the world, giving bright vibrant colors, however, without the excessive contrast often inherent in amateur films. This film has exceptionally fine grain and high sharpness, making it easy to produce large prints.

Fuji NPS 160 film is primarily a portrait film (although it can be used with success in other areas of photography). With reduced contrast and soft midtones, it is especially well suited for romantic portraits of women. The portraits shot with this film look great for my taste.

Fuji NPH 400 is also quite soft film, has very fine grain (for a film of its class) and can be recommended wherever shooting is done in low light conditions. It should be noted that NPH film is particularly sensitive to underexposure.

Of course, the choice of film (and developer) seems to be very important, but this is still not the most important thing, and therefore the main efforts should not be focused on this. Learn to work with one material in order to comprehend the intricacies of its processing and begin to "feel" it.

Some standard lighting schemes

Lighting is one of the most important moments, because photography is light painting. Poorly set lighting can completely spoil the entire shooting, even if the most luxurious model took part in it. And vice versa, with a good command of light, even a model that is not the most beautiful can be shot very beautifully, focusing on its best features and hiding flaws. For example, the shape of a model's chest can be accentuated by using harsher lighting from the side or even from above.

The types of lighting used when shooting black and white and shooting on color film are different. B/W photography often uses fairly contrasting light, sometimes even from a single direct light source. In general, the game of contrasts is often used in black and white photography. When shooting on colored materials, on the contrary, softer and more even light is used, and the contrast on the face and body does not exceed one step.

Let's look at shooting outdoors first. As a rule, rarely does anyone dare to shoot people under the direct bright sun, because in this case very deep shadows appear on the body (especially on the face), which look unaesthetic. Therefore, measures should be taken to avoid the appearance of such shadows.

One way to "brighten" shadows is to use fill flash. Fill flash is a technique that uses natural light and flash light at the same time and in a balanced way. In this case, the flash usually does not make the main contribution to the exposure, but only reduces the contrast on the face and “fills in” the shadows. Using a fill flash requires some skill, as the flash output must be finely tuned. If the flash output is incorrectly set to the lower side, the flash will not give the desired effect. Too strong an impulse will overexpose the foreground, and the background will fall into darkness. As always, using a flash meter and/or manually calculating the flash output will give you the best results.

Typically, the flash output is set to about one or two stops less than natural light. For example, if the scene is metered for aperture 16, then the flash output is often chosen so that it gives aperture 8 - 11. It's not bad if your flash "can" synchronize with all shutter speeds, however, you need to remember that the flash output in mode high-speed sync drops a lot.

Fill-flash should be used with caution, as possible glare (on skin, clothes, lycra tights, etc.) can spoil the picture.

Another way to shoot in the sun is to use reflectors. There are special reflectors, also called light disks, which are an elastic rim on which a special fabric is stretched. Such a design can be folded quite compactly, and, if necessary, unfolds almost instantly. The stretched fabric is usually different in two directions, for example, pure white and silver, or white and warm yellow. Reflectors of this type are very practical, however, in order to hold such a reflector, an assistant or a special tripod is required, which is not always convenient. On the other hand, a light disk (unlike a flash) is a predictable source of light, i. already during the shooting, you know exactly what will happen in the photo. In cinema and professional photography, a flash or a reflector is used very often, and in almost 100% of cases in contrasting lighting (the most striking example is shooting on the seashore).

Highly important point is the choice of time of day. It is good to use the morning or evening for shooting, when the sun is not high above the horizon and the light from it is not so sharp. The light from the evening sun has a very pleasant warm tint to the eye.

During the day, you can successfully shoot in the shade (for example, trees), but the light is quite small, and you often have to use 400 film.

Grass can give fairly noticeable reflexes (their intensity depends on many factors, such as the height of the sun); such reflections are usually colored in green color and can slightly spoil the picture when shooting on color film.

If we talk about shooting indoors, then there are also different lighting options. The simplest is to use a flash. I note that I have not yet had to deal with photographers who like to voluntarily use a flash. The fact is that a flash is a rather limited source of light (in terms of both quantity and quality of light), and what is most unpleasant - unpredictable. Those. if you did something wrong, you can find out about it only after the development of the film (when it is too late to correct something).

Direct head-on flash is rarely used in artistic photography, as it gives very "flat" lighting and unpleasant harsh shadows. Sometimes, to obtain the so-called shadowless light, a ring flash is worn on the lens, but this option is quite specific and cannot be recommended as a universal one.

When shooting portraits with a flash, he often uses special diffusers (for example, from Lumiquest) mounted on a flash. They can be very different, ranging from white visors to mini-softboxes or special inflatable balls, inside of which a flash is placed. However, all the same, such diffusers give a harsh light, and work effectively only at short distances. In addition, diffusers "eat off" a lot of power from the flash (up to three steps, depending on the type of diffuser).

A flash can never have a lot of power, so if possible, use the most powerful flash available with a head that can be rotated in any direction. This will make it possible to use the light reflected from the ceiling or walls.

When using flash light reflected from the ceiling, the contrast will not be as high, and the picture will be more pleasant. However, keep in mind that when using such lighting, the bottom of the photo may be too dark. The ceiling or wall that the flash light is bouncing off of must be white (at least when shooting on color film), otherwise the color balance of the picture will be far from ideal.

Sometimes light from a window is used (although usually there is quite a bit of it). This is a very pleasant and even type of lighting, and most importantly natural, since it is the eye that is most accustomed to it.

Of course, the most interesting option for shooting indoors is shooting in a studio. Although, of course, few amateurs can afford such a luxury.

Modern studios, as a rule, are equipped with pulsed light. This means that special powerful flashes are used as light sources, and halogen (sometimes ordinary) "pilot" lamps are used to simulate light (all this is done in one block). Typically, the power of the modeling lamp is made proportional to the power of the flash, and the pilot lighting photographer can pre-evaluate the light pattern given by one or more sources. Sources can be triggered both via a sync cable and by using a light "trap" (light synchronizer). Those. The sources track the pulse of light given, for example, by the flash on the camera and fire simultaneously with it. Some types of these illuminators also have infrared triggering capability.

Of course, less expensive options can be used for amateur photography. For example, these are halogen lamps (say, "Photon" type). When using halogen lamps with black and white film, there are no problems, and when shooting in color, special conversion filters are used or a special “evening” film with the “T” index in the film name is used.

You can also use multiple coordinated flashes. For example, some models of domestic flashes of the FIL type have built-in light synchronizers. It should be noted that flashes of the FIL type have certain problems with the stability of the pulse power and reliability (etc.), so they are often subjected to serious modifications before they are put into use.

You can use any other flashes, and synchronize them using separately sold synchronizers. There are flashes that screw into a regular cartridge and are also equipped with synchronizers.

Generally speaking, it is very difficult to imagine the light pattern that several flashes will give, even using a flashmeter.

Usually, when shooting people in a studio, the following lighting scheme is used - one source (“drawing”) through an umbrella, softbox, fabric or directly shines on the object, and the second source (it should be diffuse, for example a white umbrella or softbox) “fills in” the shadows. Wherein. often, the key light is placed above and away from the subject, and the fill light shines from the camera, smoothing out harsh shadows. Also, just one light source is used, or one source with a reflector / reflectors, etc. There are an infinite number of lighting schemes that are beyond the scope of the article, if you are interested in this, refer to the relevant literature.

Low key & High key

Low Key and High Key are translated into Russian as "low key" and "high key". Shooting "in high key" means shooting when the whole picture is taken in a bright tone, usually everything is low-contrast and soft, there are no deep shadows at all. A low key, on the contrary, implies the predominance of a dark tone in the image.

For high key shots, multiple light sources are usually used, some of which are directed at the background and make it pure white or almost pure white in the picture, and the model itself is also illuminated from all sides, often with soft diffused light. The model, of course, should not be dressed in dark and especially black clothes. To get a more pronounced effect, some conscious overexposure (usually about one stop) is done to further brighten the picture.

Low-key shots use a black or dark background, dark clothing, and appropriate lighting schemes. I have come across recommendations for using deliberate underexposure, but this is highly debatable, as general underexposure will simply cause shadows to fail and reduce the contrast of the image. A low key is, first of all, a correctly built and measured light. Apparently, metering in most cases should be done according to the most illuminated part of the composition.

About photographic equipment

Of course, you can shoot people with almost any camera. Of course, the medium format as a result gives a higher image quality and, importantly, allows you to better convey the plasticity of the light-tone pattern of the human body. On the other hand, narrow-film equipment is very convenient due to its speed, and sometimes, due to this circumstance, it turns out to be completely out of competition compared to medium-format equipment. With a competent approach to business - a 35 mm camera provides good quality In many cases.

After light and the ability to use it, the quality of the optics is very important. It is absolutely ridiculous to argue which is better - Canon or Nikon, or, say, Mamiya or Pentax. Optics should be such that it turns out beautifully. You can use softening, vignetting (that is, darkening the edges of the frame), spectral and other filters. Also, very interesting shots are given by a monocle, or special soft focus lenses. Do not forget about the easiest way to soften the image - just pull a piece of black nylon stocking over the lens.

One way to get "something out of the ordinary" in a picture is to shoot it on slide film and develop it using the C-41 process. This procedure is called "cross-processing". When cross-processing, "non-standard" colors and contrast are obtained. So if you like all kinds of experiments, you can try this technique. The main thing is not to overdo it with special effects, when there are a lot of them, they are tedious.

Technique is only your working tool for taking a picture, no more (and no less) than that. The main thing in photographing people is to convey the state, to show the beauty of a person and his inner world. Everything else is secondary.

I wish you all success in this difficult field of photography!

Alexey Nikolaev

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